Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by Briz, Mar 31, 2018.
You could sell that car you got and get a Tomahawk. Unless you sold it already
Which car would that be and what would I put the Tomahawk in if I sold the car?
I think he means the Chevy HHR or maybe that newer Riv you swapped motors in...
yep the chevy hhr. you could put it in your track oiler.
Sold the HHR for 5 K. Older couple bought it local to keep around as a back up driver. I considered dropping a BBB into the 85 but I dont see how it could be done without MAJOR reconstruction. The car is just to nice to do that to it. The trans axle and special engine mounts are the tough part to work around.
I have my eye on a pretty cool Skyhawk certified to 8.50. To date the owner wont part with it at a reasonable price. quoted me 10K as a roller. currently SBC powered with a power glide.
The original engine is blown, that makes it a prime candidate for that kind of mod! With the original engine toast, the car isn't that nice anymore!
Get a Tornado or Eldorado TH400 front wheel drive trans and possibly the front frame to weld on if you want to keep it incorrect wheel drive? Correct wheel drive would be WAY cooler in that car though.
All ready have a 307 Olds set back into it. Just gotta finish the wiring and plumbing.
Went back to Gainesville Raceway again today. Ran 1 qualifying pass at 6.52 which was same as it was running last week before the oil down. Pressure stayed steady through the run and after. Won rd 1. red lighted rd 2 but ran my 6.56 dial in. Only thing I see different is the amount of time it takes to prime the system on the first start of the day. Used to crank it about 10 secs and the pressure will come up. now it doesnt but will build instantly on start. Might go ahead and install the master lube.
Is there a reasonable answer for that or are you willing to risk it w/o an inspection?
Im planning on opening it up but will not have time to get it done prior to the race in NC @ the Turbo Nationals V8 class. Hoping I can get thhrough the summer with it. Fall I'll slow down and have some time +$ to get it done
Yeesh, and I'm not trying to scare you, but
I'd be concerned that high pressure covers up the beginnings of damage.
The change in priming is the flag, but it's also a new engine, so there would be slight changes anyways.
Its either going to be ok or it ain't. We'll all have to hurry up and wait to see.
I always thought a ‘79-‘85 El Dorado (especially the ‘Touring Coupe’ package) with a Caddy 500 would be cool; I know that one year (‘80?) it came with a Cadillac 368, which is a downsized 425, which is a downsized 472/500. I also figured any GM car with a 307 should have a 403 (just to keep it simple). Riviera? Either full intercooled turbo, or use a V6 car’s harnesses and brackets to go bbb.
Now, back to Briz’ horseshoe in sphincter thread.
This is one of those times whARE an old MRI machine would come in handy.
But how does anyone miss an oil filter seal staying stuck on an oil pump before installing another oil filter? I have never in my life even heard of that. I must be misunderstanding something. If not, I'm amazed someone could miss that.
This happened to me once. I noticed as i was tightening the new filter. It didn't feel right. It felt like the filter was stripping. I figured out what was going on pretty quick.
It actually happens more often than you would think. Not that this is what occurred to Steve. We always check the filter coming off for the seal, ..... especially when the filters mating location is not clearly visible. Even then if someone else has been servicing the vehicle there may already be a second seal stuck to the housing.
Interesting. Something to look out for.
Do you think it happens from over tightening or because whoever installed it didn't lube the seal first?