Oiled down the track,Again.

Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by Briz, Mar 31, 2018.

  1. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise 1000+HP

    run or not is up to you, a quick main/rod bearing inspection wouldn't hurt.

    But I agree, it's probably not hurt.. because it had some oil pressure for most of the run.

    Filter seal should be no issue at that psi.. was it simply not tight?

    Never a bad idea to go to a different style filter, I like the Oberg stuff myself.

    JW
     
  2. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    I used to see this when I changed the oil on plow trucks for a property management company. Doubled up seals, leaking like a sieve. Jim
     
  3. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    KIMG0515[1].JPG KIMG0515[1].JPG KIMG0518[1].JPG KIMG0517[1].JPG KIMG0515[1].JPG KIMG0518[1].JPG KIMG0517[1].JPG Drained what was left out of the pan. Wasn't much in there. maybe a qt. probably less. Cleaned the system one and installed it. added 6 qts of fresh oil, pulled the belt and spun up the pump with a drill. Started the engine and ran about 10 mins. fully warmed up. Shut it off. let her cool and then opened up the system 1. Element was clean. Sparkley stuff in the pan ,There always is but its non magnetic and so fine I cant feel it between my fingers. Nothing on the magnet.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
  4. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Like I said Briz,
    Ya pulled off the Hat Trick! Good deal. Jim
     
  5. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    This is a vid of the car running. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to find it on my phone and upload it to the computer.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
    lemmy-67 and 8ad-f85 like this.
  6. FJM568

    FJM568 Well-Known Member

    Hey Briz,

    Sending you a PM...
     
  7. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks for the heads up Jim. Took care of that
     
  8. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    Oil pressure is look'n good in the video Steve! That is as long as those were the same pressure levels at the same rpm and temperature as before the incident.
    As far as the photo of the oil, ... some of the "sparkley stuff" looks fairly large to me. Also I'm not sure what bearing you are using but the top layer of bearing material is not magnetic (I just scraped a used bearing from the rotating assembly I sold you, and tested with a magnet to be sure). You would have to have some mighty sensitive fingers to feel it, I couldn't.
    Copper and lead alloys are common in tri- layer bearings. They give you the embeddability to help absorb small particles.
    Are you using a bronze distributor gear? I know there wouldn't be too much of a load on it because you are using an external oil pump.

    IMG_3784.JPG

    Larry
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
  9. lemmy-67

    lemmy-67 Gold Level Contributor

    Glad you saved it. Probably just some lead/tin plating from the bearings flashed off, should be plenty left on the mating surfaces for the rod/crank journals.

    If it happens again, though, I'd change all the bearings & plastigage the clearances...make sure you didn't lose any iron on those mission-critical parts.
     
  10. lemmy-67

    lemmy-67 Gold Level Contributor

    For uploading the video from the candy bar phone, the file is stored in the DCIM folder as an mp4. The phone needs to be connected via USB to the computer, and then a pop-up window on the phone should ask to allow the file transfer, or trust the computer.
     
  11. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    The oil pressure is exactly the same as before the incident. YA know. I never thought about the bronze gear but I do have one in there. The first go around with this engine I was using the HV pump. When the adjuster unscrewed and caused the melt down I did away with it in favor of the R1 but left the gear on the dist.
     
  12. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    Is this a wet sump belt driven pump?
     
  13. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Its a wet sump. Pulls directly from a baffled sump in the pan . goes from the pump to a remote filter and into the block through an enlarged hole with #10 AN line in the factory sending unit location and another #6 into the back of the block in the right lifter galley. NCM_0576.JPG NCM_0618.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
  14. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    Steve, you just described a "Wet Sump" system with an external pump/pick-up.
    Dry sump system will require a special oil pan and have a separate oil tank with a multi-stage pump. One or two stages suck the oil out of the sump (hence-Dry Sump) and sends it to a holding tank where another stage draws it from the bottom of the tank and then pumps it back into the engine (through a filter). That's a crude explanation, but you get the idea.
    IMG_3795.PNG
    Larry
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2018
  15. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    Agreed that’s the same as my wet sump
     
  16. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    OK briz I have to ask, I see and auto shifter in the regal, but looks like some kind of adapter for a clutch bolted to a jw flex plate???? I know it's not thread related but my mind is wondering
     
  17. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    The reason I asked if the 0il pressure is at the same temperature as before the incident is because in the video the water temperature is pinned on the low peg of 140* and just starts to move at the end of the video. What is the oil pressure at when the engine reaches its full normal operating temperature?

    Larry
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
  18. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    You are, as usual correct Larry. I was having a senior moment. Its happening a lot lately!
     
  19. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    I had to go back and look for what you were referring to. That is what they bolted to the flex plate to attach it to the engine dyno.

    Once at the track I'll warm up the car to full temp. around 180. In between rounds the electric fan and water pump will cool the heads and intake pretty quick. Block is hard filled. Once they start rolling up in the lanes I'll try to get the engine back up to 160 before my turn to stage. By the time Im back in the pits its never more than 180/190. Theres other vids I shot with a go pro inside the car during a run that show the op maxing out around 80 at the shift point. I shot that vid just a few mins after I started it up that morning and did let it run with the water pump and fans turning for 10 - 15 mins.

    In this one it looks to be 90 PSI @ 6200 rpm. was late on the shift.
     
  20. got_tork

    got_tork Well-Known Member

    IMG_20161017_155136.jpg X2 on the low oil pressure light under the shift light.
     
    Briz likes this.

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