Hello I have a 68 Skylark 350 Buick engine of course. The oil filter adapter/oil pump cover where the filter screws on is stripped on the threads that hold the filter. So I am only somewhat mechanically inclined, have done a few things. I can not seem to find a answer thru google. Can I replace the cover myself as it is separate? Will it require front cover removal? Do I need to pack it with petroleum jelly as I read you need to do that when replacing the gears? Do the pump gears drop out when that cover is removed? Or is it just a matter of removing the cover, re inserting the spring, tighten and done? I do not want to risk a issue and have bad pressure. Thanks for any help
Yes, you can replace the pump cover separately. There are 2 gears, one gear has a long shaft that is driven by the bottom of the distributor shaft, the other gear rotates on a shaft in the timing cover pocket. Packing the pocket with petroleum jelly will guarantee pump priming upon start up, and is what is recommended in the Chassis Manual. In the real world, it is somewhat of a contentious issue. Some guys just wet the gears with oil before reinstall, and assemble the pump. The important thing is to verify pump prime and oil pressure BEFORE starting the engine afterwards. The best thing to do is remove the distributor before you take the pump apart. Not only will this make the long shaft gear removal easier, but you can spin the pump with a drill after reassembly, to verify prime and pressure. Some guys will also put some oil into the sender hole, and turn the pump backwards, all to facilitate priming. Internal oil pump clearances are very important to hot oil pressure. You might as well install a booster plate while you have it apart as it doesn't hurt. I cover all of that in this thread, https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/oil-pump-clearances-and-oil-pressure.326597/
Good opportunity to reset the end clearance on the gears. Set it close as you can get without rubbing. TA sells the shim kit. Jim
Yes Yes, to insure the pump primes No They probably will. Dont worry tho, clean 'em off good, what I do is twirl the gears in a tub of Vaseline real good, glob that stuff on there then slide the gears back in the pump pocket, the Vaseline will keep the gears in place, with a clean towel, wipe of any excess that oozes past the pocket/gasket surface The somewhat tricky part is setting the gear end clearance with the proper thickness gasket, Im going to go out on a limb and say the gasket TA sends with the cover will do fine, it will probably be thicker than the original resulting in more gear end clearance, but its better than too tight and the gears binding. TA sells shims to set proper end clearance, and other gaskets are of different thicknesses which will change the end clearance, we do that to make the pump as efficient as possible, but given your admitted lack of mechanical ability, the gasket provided should be ok.
Buy the TA shim pack. It only costs a few bucks and is well worth it. Make your best educated guess about which one to use, bolt it together and see if you can turn the gears with a big screwdriver through the distributor hole. If it binds try a thicker gasket. If it spins freely try a thinner one. If it drags but will turn try one .0005" thicker. Do that until it stops dragging and that's your gasket to assemble it with. Not complicated and not that much work. Then pack your gears, apply sealant lightly and call it good. Do not think if a little clearance here is good then more is better because it is certainly not. You want it as close as you can get it without dragging. You are limited only by the steps in the gasket sizes. Jim
