Why do I see more of this if I click on "Quote" than if I just read it? Wonder what else I've missed? Still need the answers to my original questions about the hi-volume kit. What needs to be drilled and why do you need to remove the timing chain cover sometimes? Please. Al
Due to the position of the oil pump on the cover, it can be awkward to install the HV/HP pump. That is why the instructions may advise removing the cover. When I installed my HV/HP pump years ago on my first Buick (350-2V), I had to drill 2 holes for installation of 2 roll pins to locate the spacer plate precisely. If that isn't done correctly, the gears will rub the plate. The kit also came with plastic shims to help with alignment. That's kind of hard to do on your back, but on a lift it would be easier. Even if you do install the pump kit, it still leaves you with the end clearance issue which is very important. End clearance needs to be .002-.003 maximum.(.002 preferred) Hope that helps.
Al, I might still have the instructions from my Kenne Bell HV/HP kit. If I can find them, I'll scan them and post. Will that help?
Hi Al, The iron spacer plate in the high volume kit has to be neatly aligned with the oil pump gears, so the kit provides (if I remember) a drill bit, two roll pins and two thin pieces of shim stock. The idea is to put the spacer over the new, taller gears, wrapping the thin shim stock around each gear to take up the slack between the gears & spacer, centering the spacer & gears for even clearance. You then mark the front cover with a punch through two holes in the spacer. Next you disassemble the whole mess and drill the two punch marks in the front cover and press in the roll pins so they stick out from the cover a bit. For final assembly, the spacer plate will fit over the two new roll pins that are protruding, preserving the orientation that was seen during the mockup. The shims go in the drawer for the next job. Man it's hard to write about something when a couple of pictures could do so much better! Devon
Thank you. I'm going to think on this a bit more. May just try 50W racing oil and the stock pump parts. Want to get a gasket and check the pump end play. Another thing I want to check is the viscosity of hot and room temperature 10W-40 and 15W-40. Just want to know what's going on when the oil heats up. Just need to invent some kind of test. Someone asked what changing the filter had to do with quieting the lifters. When I figure that one out I'll let you know At this point all I can say is the pump is putting out all the oil it can and it's leaking from who knows what. Can't imaging the mains are that sloppy. So what does that leave? Anyone here ever try chucking the bottom of the pump in a lathe and facing the bottom where the gears rub? Think that would be easier than trying to get it flat in my mill, and I think the lathe would do a better job. Especially if I can get it where the center is in a cavity. Can see it flying across my shop now. Your 1/4 miles times are close to one of my street cars, a 73 454 powered Nova. Runs 12.00 @ 113. It's a 454 with a Comp hydraulic cam and small 396 heads. TH-350 and 9" Ford. My real race car runs 9 flat @ 153 with a 489 inch Chevy, Glide and 4.56 Dana 60. It's a Camaro. And I have a 62 Chevy II street car with a 406 inch small block, TH-400 w/brake, 9" Ford. It runs high 10's at 123. So far no Honda has tried it All the listed times are in Tucson @ 3000 plus feet and hot. Have pictures of everything. Want to thank everyone that's helped so far. BTW: Everything came apart easily. No broken bolts, no broken skin. Can't beat that. Al
A simple way to resurface the filter housing where the gears ride is to place a sheet of 180 grit emory paper over a flat piece of glass...pass the housing face down back & forth until scratches disappear. Devon
Was looking around on the web and found this: Can't post a link yet Go to AutoZone's site and search for the oil pump repair kit. They have the Melling K-20IPHV hi-volume kit with the thrust plate for $40. Seems like the deal. Al
So, you live in the high rent district http://www.autozone.com/R,575071/ve...partType,03920/shopping/partProductDetail.htm Went out to check the feasibility of drilling the holes without removing the cover. My shop was flooded. So now I'm cleaning up a mess. I'll get back to this when I can. Al
Al I had a similar problem with a pontiac 400... I know its not the same but the fix might be, I went thru several filters noticing different pressures and the lifter noise. A visit to the local speed shop and $15.00 later I had a Moroso race filter installed; it worked for me. It seems somtimes we want a higher pass thru rate rather than filtering something so fine the pump cannot force the fluid to pass thru The off the shelf carquest (wix) and fram filters are indeed very fine but are they necessary? my .02 worth
Well, I'm back. Much water under the bridge, many life changing problems but I'm back to the Buick. Put it back together today. Didn't replace anything but the oil pump gasket, and the gasket for the oil relief plug broke so I put an O ring on it. It fired right up and got pressure in just a few seconds. 30 PSI at fast idle cold. Let it run a while to see if I could kill the Mosquito's in the shop. Going to fill it with 50 W racing oil tomorrow and see what happens. There is a place in Phoenix that will rebuild my 350 if it comes to that for about a grand. Good, bad?? I'm wondering what the chances of finding a donor 350 Chevy powerd car like a Monte Carlo, and swapping everything out. Sounds like a lot of work but so does pulling the Buick, hauling it to Phoenix, going back to get it and putting it back in. I'd really like to get out of this mess. Any suggestions on the rebuild or swap? While I was under the car I was thinking of the reason's the Buick engineers did the timing chain cover the way they did. Does anyone know for sure? Al
Back again. If you're a friend of mine RUN! Two of my friends have died in the last month. Put 50W racing oil in the 350. Not much gain in oil pressure but the lifters are staying quiet. Took it through emissions yesterday. It passed. As I already knew, #7 spark plug wire is sick. Was touching the exhaust manifold, put the car on my Sun ignition scope and that's the one and only problem in the ignition system. Was neat to see a car with points after all these years Tomorrow I try one more time to get this thing registered. Been Hell. Arizona will not accept the papers I have from Missouri. But that's another story... Tomorrow it gets the Arizona incoming vehicle inspection. Al
Color me pissed! Put 50 W racing oil in the Buick. Been driving it. Yesterday the lifters started their symphony again. So I put it away. Let it sit over night and just fired it up. Did this more than once during this ordeal to insure it was not hot oil or something covering the pickup screen. They won't shut up. As soon as I change the oil filter it will. Well, if it does the same thing as it's been doing. This is nuts! My logic circuits are overloaded This filter has about 20 miles on it. Cut the last two apart, there is nothing in them. What the Hell is going on? Or what could be going on? The filter has a bypass in the filter/oil pump housing, I had it all apart and everything looks new. And even if it was stuck wide open or shut, it should not do this. Al
Al, Have you ever tried removing the filter, emptying it, then re install the same filter? Does that quiet it down? Just curious. Maybe it's not the new filter, but just removing and installing the filter does something. I can't figure out why that would be, not yet anyway.
I'm going to pull the filter and cut it open soon as I can get calmed down. \ I'm converting my race car to gasoline. That should keep me away from a sledge hammer for a while. This oil filter thing is making absolutely no sense. Anyone know about dropping the pan on a 73 Regal? I might chance looking at the bearings. Maybe I'll find a dead rat in the pan Time to find a Monte Carlo with a SBC and starting a transplant. Al
If that car has the same chassis as my '71, and I believe it does, all you need to do to drop the pan is remove the motor mount bolts and jack the engine up 'til it almost touches the firewall. Pan will clear no problem. No need to mess with anything else.
