1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Oil feed line and restricter plugs

Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by jmhock, Feb 13, 2021.

  1. jmhock

    jmhock Well-Known Member

    Using a TA external oil pump into a remote filter. This is an aluminum block with redesigned oil passages. Two outputs, one into old oil sender location and one into oil galley at rear of block. The lifter galley also had the restrictor fittings at the rear of the block. Do I need to use these restrictors or will there be enough oil flow without them?
     
  2. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    What do the restrictors in your Bulldog block look like Jim?... size?

    The answer is based on a question : what are they restricting?

    I don't know of any lifter manufacturer that does not specifically warn against restricting the oil to the lifters, but I also know plenty of guys do it. I personally just put plugs in the restrictor holes in the TA block, and restrict the upper end oiling via pushrod orifices if required.

    Now, with that said, if your using the TA version of the scavenger oil filter cover adapter setup, then it has three ports on it.

    Input from the oil pan.

    Output to the oil filter.

    By-pass... That has a external pressure relief setup, which exhausts oil to that port, where you ten plumb it back into the supply side of the system.

    So see if he is just dumping it in the valley, which is not what you want to do.

    Here is a better option.. Get a thick alum block off plate for the fuel pump, and tap a fitting in it to dump the oil back into the block there.. spraying oil on the timing chain makes them live nearly forever.. the one motor that work with that has this setup, has a big solid roller with timing chain stretching valve spring pressures..

    It's had the same chain on it for 10 years, 800 passes, and 2 freshen ups.. and the only reason that is happening is the oil being sprayed on the chain.

    So take a good look at what you really have there, pictures would be helpful too.

    Here is a couple of the setup here..

    DSC02179.JPG DSC02181.JPG

    JW
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2021
    Kingfish likes this.
  3. jmhock

    jmhock Well-Known Member

    Thanks Jim. Have the bipass going into fuel pump block off plate and also return from separate Tilton electric pump that is used to prime oil for cold start and 2 way valve to use for a cooler. The restricter was in from original build. Didn't think I should keep them. The restrictor has a 0.08 bleed hole. Was thinking of at least enlarging them. Pictues to show remote filter, one inlet from TA pump and the other input is for pre start up. The output has an additional output so was thinking of adding a line for lifter gallies and removing the restictors? The Pan is a deep sump removal sump that has two AN fitting welded in so one is for TA pump and the other is for the Tilton prime/cooler system. Know it's difficult to follow.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 14, 2021

Share This Page