Oil changes

Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by Mr. HEMI HUNTER, May 8, 2022.

  1. Mr. HEMI HUNTER

    Mr. HEMI HUNTER Well-Known Member

    How often you guys changing oil? Only have 30-35 passes on this change. Ran nationals last year and 2 nostalgia races after that. No trying to be a cheap ass, but if it doesn’t need it I’m not gonna do it. The old pump gas 430 was years between oil changes. All I ever did with it was make sure it had oil. I know I can’t treat this one like that. Thanks in advance for y’all’s input.
     
    TrunkMonkey likes this.
  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Change it.
     
    73 Stage-1 and 1973gs like this.
  3. Mr. HEMI HUNTER

    Mr. HEMI HUNTER Well-Known Member

    Kinda figured as much. Is there a magic number of runs?
     
  4. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    What oil are you running what filter
     
  5. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I change mine about every 40-50 passes.......I cut my filter apart about every 20-25......but that oul has been in there a year......so I'm sure it has drawn moisture
     
    TrunkMonkey likes this.
  6. Mr. HEMI HUNTER

    Mr. HEMI HUNTER Well-Known Member

    Using WIX filters.
     
  7. Mr. HEMI HUNTER

    Mr. HEMI HUNTER Well-Known Member

    30 at VR-1 valvoline. The old 430 got Oreilly brand 30 wt. Only the best for that old thing. LOL
     
  8. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    It depends on how clean the oil is. Change it when it gets dirty
     
  9. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    If it's dirty, it's too late. Oil should never be left in the engine for more than twelve months regardless of mileage.
     
  10. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Yeah if is dirty but I've got numerous cars with 2+ yr old clean oil in them. I just started a motor with 25yr old oil in it. I don't see that it can go bad just sitting.

    What's worse is starting once a month and only running for 5 or 10 minutes. All that does is put condensation and gas in the oil.
     
  11. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Depends on the ambient conditions Bruce.. if it was in climate control the whole time, in a low humidity environment, then the oil itself was fine.. what's not fine is the acids formed by combustion byproducts, that collect in the oil, and the ony way they get removed is to remove the oil. If that is an issue depends on how much the vehicle was used, with that oil in it. If your talking about 3K plus miles, and then sitting for 25 years, then that engine is toast.. at least the bearings are, the acids have eaten into them.. seen it many times.

    Change interval depends on the usage.. race motors, at the extreme, only make one pass on an oil change.. the other end of the spectrum is they might go several hundred passes. Race motors are all about contamination due to fuel getting past the rings. The more efficient and sealed the engine is, the longer the oil will last. But never for more than a season.. the last thing you want to do is let you nice motor stew in acid all off-season.

    Street cars are similar, but due to the time they spend running, mileage and time don't mean a whole lot.. our cars spend a lot of time idling and low speed cruising, much more so than say your average passenger car. We also tend to have big cams, rumpy idles, and maybe not the most perfect tuning..

    I tell my customers who ask, to do this, with their new engines.

    Take a small glass jar and put a few onces of oil in it, from the bottle you pouring into the engine.. Just enough to see the color.. Cap it tightly.. store it in a cool dry place.

    Watch the dipstick.. and when you think the oil is starting to change colors, then drain a touch out of the crankcase into a another glass jar.. the filter is a great place to get a little, without making a mess.. just crack it loose..

    Now compare the two samples for color.. it will be obvious when it needs to be replaced. How long that takes, depends on the particular build, as well as how it is used, and stored.. Cars with high overlap cams, that spend more time at the cruise nights and cars and coffee events, might need it changed as early as a few hundred miles. Engines with small overlap cams, that are used more for transportation than cruising, and/or are warmed up completely on the highway every time they are drive, and don't ever sit in traffic, could go several thousand miles.

    For winter storage, drain the oil and refill the crankcase start it just long enough to fill the filter, and distribute the fresh oil to the bearings.. 15-20 seconds.. If you store in climate control, then no problem, your ready to go next spring.

    On the other hand, if your storing in a building that is prone to condensation, then change the oil again in spring.. save it for an oil change on your daily driver.

    There are many ways to do it, but one thing is a constant.. you cannot change it too often. Oil, oil filters and gasoline are expendable commodities used to operate an engine. Trying to save money is typically unwise. Maybe not catastrophic, but over time, the damage is done.

    Remember the old Fram commercial.. "Pay me now, or pay me later".

    JW
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2022
  12. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    I change all of my non daily drivers in the fall before storage. My daily driver I change twice a year, about every 3k miles. The last few years, I use the 4 quarts that I drain from my S-10 for my fall oil change in my daily driver plus 1 new quart. My S-10 only gets 400-500 miles a year. I don't like to see any color when I check the oil.:) Anybody want to but an 88 S-10?
     
  13. Buizila

    Buizila GO BROWNS !!!!!!

    It's the cheapest preventative maintenance you can do. Change it and change it often. I change mine at the end of every season and have about 25-30 passes tops. I use Partial Syn 20w50 Brad/Penn and have a System 1 filter
     
    1973gs likes this.
  14. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Here's a question - do you change it cold or hot? Seems like cold all the fluid is in the pan ready to drain out. When its hot the oil will flow better but has to drain to the pan. Maybe start hot and leave it to drip over night?
     
  15. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    I think with detergent oil it needs to be changed hot.
    Be careful with the overnight draining...I know a guy who did that with the filter removed and it lost prime. Also i don't like the idea of a cold start after draining...going to take longer to prime regardless. Also with a carb cold start fast idle is not what you want with it trying to prime after changing oil.
     
  16. Mr. HEMI HUNTER

    Mr. HEMI HUNTER Well-Known Member

    Changed the oil before I left for bg. Car ran great, made 13 passes over the week. Watched oil pressure at the end of one of the runs, 80 psi/at 6400 rpm off the back at the bypass line. Felt good, maybe this one will live a while like the old 430.
     
    Max Damage and TrunkMonkey like this.
  17. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Always love seeing the Stewdabuick™ run!
     
    Mr. HEMI HUNTER likes this.
  18. Mr. HEMI HUNTER

    Mr. HEMI HUNTER Well-Known Member

    Had a good time, I think the highlight of the trip was Friday when the car was sitting behind the starting line waiting on the oil down to be cleaned up. I look and I see a dad with his little boy. Dad was getting a picture of his boy next to the car. I went over and told him if his son wanted to sit in it to go ahead. The smile on the little guys face was priceless.
     
    patwhac, m louk, 12lives and 2 others like this.

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