Oil and Fuel Additive Cleaners

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by 1968_GS400, Mar 9, 2022.

  1. 1968_GS400

    1968_GS400 Founders Club Member

    Does anyone use oil and fuel additive cleaners? What are your thoughts on these?

    I recently found ATS Chemicals 505 Pour-Ins. They will be back in stock in about a month.

    https://www.atschemicals.com/505-pour-ins

    If you used the oil additive cleaner, do you run the risk of cleaning carbon deposits that are helping to keep things sealed? What about the fuel additive cleaner?

    Scotty Kilmer really liked the 505 Oil Cleaner

     
  2. pbr400

    pbr400 68GS400

    They’ll clean your wallet. No healthy engine needs them, and they won’t fix a sick one.

    …And Scotty’s a hack.
    Patrick
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Oil additives are completely unnecessary if you just use the right oil to begin with and change it at the right time/mileage.

    If you feel the need to remove carbon deposits, Seafoam is the way to go. It's probably not necessary either.
     
    GS464, Mike B in SC and 70skylark350 like this.
  4. 1968_GS400

    1968_GS400 Founders Club Member

    What kind of oil do you guys use in these old cars?

    I went with 10W-30 PennGrade 1 for the higher ZDDP content.

    https://penngrade1.com/
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  6. 1968_GS400

    1968_GS400 Founders Club Member

  7. 70skylark350

    70skylark350 Jesus loves you unconditionally

    Valvoline VR1 is also good stuff. I have used so called fuel treatments in the past and shortly there after my carb took a crap so I don’t believe in that crap anymore
     
  8. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    I watched the video, we'll 1/2 of it anyway lol. Some people really go to great lengths to try to make a $$$! LMAO God people can be so stupid and gullible!

    I've been doing this same thing my entire adult life. But instead of running down to a auto parts store and spending a bunch of $$$ on overpriced crap, I use diesel fuel.

    Diesel fuel is the best cleaner imo. It will remove all the gunk and carbon build up. I've seen it reseat rings, clean carbon and increase oil pressure.

    2 good prime examples of this.

    1) A shop owner purchased a Mazda sports car from a customer (dirt dirt cheap) because they thought the engine was junk and needed replacing or rebuilt. It smoked really bad.

    The owner hires a new certified master auto tech. First job for the new mechanic is to check out this Mazda. After diagnosing the car, he walked over to the gas station next door got a quart of diesel fuel and poured it into the crankcase. Then he drove the car for an hour, changed the oil and filter. The car was FIXED! Motor ran great and NO smoke. The owner was shocked to say the least.

    2) My daily driver, a 2000 s10 with 4.3 motor. I bought it with 245,000 miles on it. While doing a new intake gasket I noticed a lot of carbon build up and such inside the motor. I gave it the diesel treatment, cleaned up the inside of my motor really nice. After I got done I gained a solid 10-20 lbs more oil pressure!

    That was over a year ago and it still has great oil pressure.

    So don't be a dummy and waste your money on dumb junk.


    Keith
     
  9. stump puller455

    stump puller455 1970 GS 455

    Joe Gibbs driven only in my bbb ...as per jw instruction need to keep my life time warranty intact !..lol
     
  10. 1968_GS400

    1968_GS400 Founders Club Member


    Thank you for your comments. I think there is a lot of truth to what you are saying about the diesel fuel. Diesel fuel has higher levels of detergent in it, and should clean some deposits.

    That is also what you are paying for with premium gasoline, higher levels of detergent and other additives which are in a delicate balance, in addition to the higher octane. Some of the additives also help to boost the octane.

    These fuel and oil additives are also claiming to sell this, but too much or the wrong balance may damage things as you say. I think in older cars, some of the deposits may actually be helping to keep things sealed, so once you remove the deposits, maybe you end up with a lot more problems. Premium gasoline and a properly formulated oil probably do as good a job or probably a better job (because the oil and fuel are formulated in the correct balance with appropriate levels of detergents, dispersants, friction modifiers, etc.) than most of the pour in additives.

    These older cars, however, were meant and designed to have higher levels of ZDDP and lower levels of detergents in the oil. This is what you are buying with your Joe Gibbs hot rod oil, etc. If you start adding a high level of detergent like is in one of these additives, you may break up sludge which may go somewhere you don’t want it and damage things.
     
  11. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I use Lucas oil stabilizer, and I will add transmission fluid to oil if the engine is quickly blackening the oil. The detergents in the trans fluid help remove crud, just add it a few hundred miles before each oil change.
     
    1968_GS400 likes this.
  12. 64 wildcat conv

    64 wildcat conv Silver Level contributor

    In my 40 years of car ownership and several years as a pro auto mechanic/ machinist I have found and used only two additives that actually worked for me.
    First is Marvel Mystery Oil. The shop I used to work for installed top end oilers for engines that ran on LPG. These were mostly industrial truck, for lifts, and some school buses that we converted from gasoline to LPG. We found this improved valve life in those vehicles. I've also used the oil in gasoline engines which had sticking valves and lifers by putting a small amount of oil in the fuel and engine oil.
    Second is Engine Restore. I first tried it in my late grandfather's 1929 Model A that I inherited back in 2015. It had been restored in the 1970s but was let go for about 10 years when he became I'll. When I got it the compression was low (45 psi) on two cylinders and 60 psi on the other 2. After a leak down test and several other attempts to bring the engine up to snuff I tried Engine Restore . After a few months I noticed a power increase and the ability of the car to maintain 50 mph instead of the 40-45 I was used to. I checked the compression and got 65-65-60-60 psi.
    After that I decided to try it in my 64 Wildcat and raised the compression from 135-160 to 150-165 for all. The average pressure went up by about 10 psi. Oil consumption also dropped by about 50%, down to about a pint every 1200 miles.
     
  13. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I also use a can of sea foam in the fuel
    Tank every time I change the oil on any vehicle. Keeping the carb or fuel
    Injectors clean is important
     
    1968_GS400 likes this.
  14. 1968_GS400

    1968_GS400 Founders Club Member

    Nice. So some additives do work.
     
    sean Buick 76 likes this.
  15. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    I cannot say enough about BGProducts.

    Tom T.
     
    john.schaefer77 and 1968_GS400 like this.
  16. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    YESSSS, Somebody with a daily driver older than my 2001 Safari:D
    I have more miles tho, the 4.3 runs like a champ tho, I just did my intake gasket again awhile back.
     
  17. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Geeez...Scotty Kilmer....what a tool...annoying voice annoying person....
    He raves about Toyota trucks but never mentions the massive frame rot recall or the fact that they have smaller motors than GM but still get worse mpg.
     
  18. 1968_GS400

    1968_GS400 Founders Club Member

    I decided to try some Berrymans B12 Chemtool, which I understand is Seafoam’s competitor. I am running a filthy carburetor that probably hasn’t been rebuilt on in 20-30 years. I’ve got another carburetor I sent to Quadrajet Power for professional rebuild that I should get back in a few weeks. On my existing carb, I was having a lot of hesitation issues, which I hope will be resolved with the carb rebuild. The Berrymans in the fuel made a noticeable and pretty fast improvement, in my opinion, and almost all or most of the hesitation is gone after 80-100 miles. I think I must have had some gummed up jets. I put a little directly in the carb too and then a whole can in the gas.

    I’m pretty pleased so far but I think I am going to start using a can of Seafoam or Berrymans at each oil change, or maybe even more frequent, going forward like you suggest.

    I also added some Marvel Mystery Oil and have a few hundred miles on that now. I think it helped and it seems to be running smoother now. Going to change the oil and put Driven HR5 in it this time like someone suggested above.
     
  19. bostoncat68

    bostoncat68 Platinum Level Contributor

    I like Berrymans too, I’ve used it to help with carbon on my valves. It works great in lawnmowers to clear out the carb. However, the main ingredient is acetone so be careful about leaving it sitting in your tank for an extended period. I suspect it would be tough on rubber parts, seals etc. I like to use it on longer trips etc so I know it’s not sitting in the tank.
     
  20. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I use this sane trick on several handful of cars over the past 20 some years. In my personal 6.5l I put about liter in b4 every oil change and run it for a little bit then service......unlike most diesel where when u change the oil start it and the new oil is pure black, mine will stay looking like normal oul for several thousand b4 turning all soot black
     

Share This Page