Stall is where the engine rpm will "hang" until the wheel speed catches up to it. Past that, it "couples" with a slight loss due to slippage. "lockup" is generally a clutch inside the convertor that locks the input and output of the convertor together with no slippage.
Yes, I sent the builder the vehicle weight, gearing, hp and torque peaks with what stall rpm I wanted. For quicker ET I should have gone 3500-4000 but I wanted streetability too.
Thanks for explaining. So they would basically want dyno numbers to make one. I suppose in my case I could use stock 350 numbers. Do you recommend a manufacterer? Also how much was yours?
I used TCS in Canada for mine, but they deal more with Ford convertors. It ended up costing around $650 for a 9.5" single clutch lockup convertor. Most builder's websites have a build sheet that they want you to fill out, the more info you supply, the closer it gets to what you want the first time. Edit: Here's the site, they do make stuff for all brands. Your best bet is to call whatever company you choose and give them all the details you can. http://www.tcsproducts.com/products/category/performance-converters /
I've had Chris at Continental build some serious converters fore,and I am very pleased with them. The are in the $550.00-$600.00 range. You could also check with PTC. I've had great results with theirs too,and them might cost less. I tried a custom TCI,and I split the whole inside,so I am "one & done" with them.
The numbers you see are worthless. Buy an off the shelf converter and roll the dice. Do you feel lucky?
Speaking of that, can a failing converter "click"? Check out my videos post#86 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?297803-Lifter-tick-only-when-not-on-level-ground/page4
Just to add some to this quote - I have bought many converters over the years and have not run into one bad one yet. B& M 2000 2500 TCI 2500 3000 Stockers from GM 1800 Perfect Converter RACE 3500 ATI RACE 5000 RED NECK converters (Ebay) YES RACE 4000 EVEN had a OLD USED VEga converter that never failed ...VERY sloppy and never really did so good 2500 stall ish but I was 19-20 on that venture.... I know I could be awfully LUCKY.... lol. Doubt it... But some times you have install error and under fill error etc causing some of these failure issues. NOW I am NOT saying a RACE car is not going to have converter issues (broken pump drive neck stators fins etc and a MESS of other issues on the car rocker arms rings camshafts push rods.... THIS IS what happens when cars are just way over built and raced every weekend S--T is going to BREAK or your plain old just not racing enough... This car just sounds like a street car he wants to get a bit more fun out of with out loosing all the drive-ability. Pop a 2000 stall into any stock good running v8 3500-4000# car and it will wake up the car nicely. IT ain't going to be a race car but with the 3.08 swap and this 2000 converter I am sure it will be a nice spark to the low end....AS LONG as the rest of the drive train is running correctly .... If the car is not running correctly this is just a expensive band aide that will feel ok but will not solve the real issue. This is not likely going to blow up the car engine or trans etc.... Be reasonable on the guy... And he to also has to realize there is ONLY so many of the things on your list that can be accomplished with out a total revamp of the car. Remember this is YOUR car.... So you will initially have to make the decision on the parts. I would do one item at a time so you can feel what each item accomplished to the set-up you have Have fun! Enjoy the hobby.... Jim J D
Thanks, so I found my flex plate was cracked so I need a new one, while I'm in there and staring at my converter...I was thinking of the 2000 stall converter swap too. When you say 2000, should 2000 be the high number in teh advertised rpm? Thanks.
If you have a stock cam, yes. Remember we can only help as much as you let us know what parts you have. If you are guessing, so are we. Just NO WAY around that. Jim J D
I do have a stock cam. However there is a TA212 on my shelf here. If I were to run that, same converter?
I sent my current car data (with soon to be installed 3.08 gears) to Coan Racing today for advisment on a converter. We'll see what they think.
I was reading on B&Ms site and they list rpms. But they dont ask for the car info. Since weight of cars that used the TH350 varied alot, and came with many different rear diffs I can see how its still a guess buying like that. "Stall speed listings are based on engines producing 230lb. ft. of torque at 2,500 rpm. More torque at 2,500 rpm will give you more stall speed, less torque at 2,500 rpm will give you less stall speed than the stall speed ratings indicated." I'm still not sure about the inch diameter though, with any given stall, can you choose smaller diameter and it will rev quicker due to less spinning mass?
Coan recommended this converter, keep in mind this is with the 3.08 rear diff. http://www.jegs.com/i/Coan-Racing/206/COA-20211-4/10002/-1 "2400-2600 stall"
Is TSI any good? Transmission Specialties (not TCI) http://transmission-specialties.com/WhyConverter.html They have a similar stall converter for $184 (GM2400) Coan's is $425 TSI says its because Coan's "is an OE core unit. Ours is aftermarket so the core costs are not there keeping the price low." (?)
They are all guessing. They have no idea how that converter will feel on the street in your car. Either have a converter built for your car, or stick with the stock converter. You want a converter that feels stock until you really step on it. A converter that is too loose gets old really fast on the street. You will not be pleased. When it comes to converters, you get what you pay for. Like I have been telling you, roll the dice if you feel lucky.
I kind of thought this was having one built for my car, give them the stats, and go from there. Right? You get what you pay for statement would be helpful to me if you clarified against my question about this: -Coan's "is an OE core unit. Ours is aftermarket so the core costs are not there keeping the price low."
Anything you get from Jegs is an off the shelf converter even if it is a Coan. I don't know how to make this any clearer to you, unless you have someone knowledgeable build a converter specifically for your car, you may not be pleased with the results. The more details you supply, the closer they can get. I'm not even convinced you need a converter, but if you want one, get it built for your car. If I was you, I'd give Jim Weise a call and ask what he can come up with for your car. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?147066-TSP-9-5-quot-Street-Strip-converters-Lifetime-warrantee! Obviously, you don't need a 9.5, but JW may be able to have something built that would work well.
For the MOST part there's only so many combinations of parts that can make a converter different from one and another shelf converter are nothing more than popular combos of stators turbines etc and when you give your specs one they have on the shelf very well may have the needed combo of Parts. I use Greg At R AND R converter in Asheville NC because you will get one on one service and more converter for the money than anywhere else imo, call Greg and he will school pretty much anybody on converters dude is slick weve got 5sec street cars running his units every week and ive used 8 of his now latest was a 4000flash stall in a 2010 camaro I done cam and boltons and the guys at Vengeance racing in GA couldn't believe how well it coupled AND yet had a pull off RPM of only 500rpm above stock. And Vengeance racing builds and tunes some of the FASTEST LS cars in the world
