1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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No Dash Lights

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by Phil, Sep 18, 2016.

  1. Lance Williams

    Lance Williams Well-Known Member

    Yes, however mine were both working inside before the lsed change then again BEFORE the LED change the right inside blinker went out but the left still was good. THEN after the bulb change to LED neither inside blikers worked. So I'm thinking this has nothing to do with the bulbs or LED's????
     
  2. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    I found that the LEDS were so bright in the blinkers it was blinding when they were turned on at night
     
  3. Jamie Carnes

    Jamie Carnes May the Torque be with you.

    If you haven't changed the 2 bulbs in the back of the A/C & heater control, the dim condition may be the result of a bad bulb or bulb sockets that aren't installed correctly in the back of the control. If you can locate the bulb wires and sockets, you should be able to confirm that they are getting power with a tester and install new bulbs. I'm sure someone makes an LED version of the 1893 if you want the brightness to match your other components.

    The turn signal indicators could be experiencing a number of problems if you are sure your bulbs are good and you know power is coming to the speedometer's circuit board. The socket prongs may not have a good connection on the speedometer's circuit board, or the sockets may have an issue of some sort. If the metallic ribbon on the back of the speedometer's circuit board has been compromised in some way, that could also cause a no-power condition for the indicator lights when they are supposed to blink. Also, the pins that actually plug into the speedometer's wiring harness often get brittle and can come loose; this, too, can cause no-power issues to the speedometer's lights. It sounds like you might have to get a better look at the back of the speedometer.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    What I have found on most climate control back plates is that the bulb heat distorts the plastic. That results in the bulb sockets falling out of the plastic.
     
    Jamie Carnes likes this.

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