new race car

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by hotrodet, Nov 11, 2002.

  1. hotrodet

    hotrodet DONT FLY WITH OUT A/P MX

    Have new 65 GS race car to start raceing next year. Using chassie works fully adjustable ladder bar and coil over set up. Looking for info articals on tuning ladder bar set up. Would like to see some thing that shows pics on direction changes and what they do. Any info would be appreciated Thanks.
     
  2. Buicks4Speed

    Buicks4Speed Advanced Member

    Set up

    Setting the bottom of the ladder bar parallel to the frame is a good place to start.
    Try to get the ride height as low as wheel clearance will allow. Keeping the ladder bar level.
    Moving the rear end back about an inch will allow you to run a taller tire. Or at least keep the tire from rubbing on the front of the wheel well.
    Moving the front of the ladder bar up will increase the hit on the tire and down will take away the hit.
    Investing in a good set of 12 way adjustable front shocks will help tune the launch to your liking.
    I tried travel limiters at first instead of 12 way front shocks but it kept too much wieght from getting on the back tires and I got BAD tire shake.
     
  3. hotrodet

    hotrodet DONT FLY WITH OUT A/P MX

    hotrodet

    Thanks for the input. Right now I have the front rod end in the upper hole and I get a lot of tire spin. so I should lessen the hit. this is on a 9 1/2 in tread patch MT slick. Car is low in the wheel well and the front is lowerd. should be close to 700Hp in a 65 GS 4:30 gear 2:77 gear set in a trbo 400 with a 4500 stall. wight shoud be 3000 or a bit lighter. Just made 1 launch on my street on dry concrete,and cold tire. Got a LIGHT BURN OUT MARK. I have the rear adjuster on the aft bottem end of the ladder bar(made by chassie works) Anny more info would be apprecitiated. This is a big step up from my 67GS 13.3 street car. THANKS PS. hope to see you at the track some time, want to hang with other buick racers.(and would like to sut up my mopar narrow minded nabors)
     
  4. Adam Whitman

    Adam Whitman Guest

    Get this book: "Doorslammers: The Chassis Book. By Dave Morgan"

    It's an excellent reference for most all drag racing chassis setup. You may have to read some sections over and over before you get it, but it gets you down to the what and why of setup.

    HTH
     
  5. Buicks4Speed

    Buicks4Speed Advanced Member

    Question?

    How old are your M/T? If they have been sitting for a while it may take a few passes down the track before they come around. What is the angle of your ladder bar to your frame? What front springs and shocks are you running? A ladder bar usually hooks great when set up right and the correct chassis setup.:Brow: with that gearing setup and weight your probably going to have a hard time keeping those wheels on the ground coming out of the hole when it hooks.:eek2:
     
  6. buicksstage1

    buicksstage1 Well-Known Member

    Hi Rick,don't forget pinion angle.Chris
     
  7. Buicks4Speed

    Buicks4Speed Advanced Member

    Oh, I wouldn't worry about the light tire mark on the street. you'd probably have to get those tires good and hot before they'll lay down a good patch of rubber. The only way to get it dialed in right is at the track. I'd leave the ladder bar in the upper hole for now.
     
  8. hotrodet

    hotrodet DONT FLY WITH OUT A/P MX

    Tires Have been sitting around for about 5 yrs. frount springs are the stock 65 springs from the 401. I cut 2 1/2 in off the top so car is sitting nice and low. The chassie works coil over kit brought the rear down a bit also. Did not upgrade the rear spring package. They are fairly stiff and only compress about a inch when jacking up the rear end from the bottem. I have a glass back bumper and trunk lid. Did't make the track before the end of the year so will have to find out this spring. Will be at the GS nats for sure this yr.
     
  9. Buicks4Speed

    Buicks4Speed Advanced Member

    Hmmmm........

    You might seriously consider some drag springs from Moroso. Part # 47140 which are 240 lb/in springs or #47150 which are 213 lb/in springs. I'm not sure how light your front end is but the 240 lb spring is a good place to start. These are 64-67 springs. I run 242 lb/in springs which are the softest/lightest springs they make for a 68-72 G body. I ran these springs in my 3500 lb GS and 3300 lb GS. They have a good low ride height and an excellent lift on the front end on the launch. Cut springs work poorly on small tired race cars, they have no "jump" in them to get the weight on the back tires.

    5yr old tires may be a bit "dry" and hard to hook up. You might try to get some tire treatment out of Summit or somewhere to put on you tires a week or so before you go to the track to soften them up a bit. Remember VHT is usually track treatment not ment for tires. It is alot cheeper than tire treatment but doesn't work properly. Tire treatment usually cost over $60. :TU:
     

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