Hi! When I saw the installation films from PerTronix, I realize that my current is both injured and have the wrong gap from the magnetic ring. I want to replace it with something new Instead of trying to repair it. When I read the reviews on summit racing so are most of them positive. At the same time, I know that many have had problems with Pertronix. Which is also mentioned in the comments on the summit racing. What would you have chosen? 1) oldschool ponits? 2) some Pertronix? 3) any other make? 4) A new MSD distributor? (stock replacer) (How do I use the car? Summer evenings / weekends, slowly through the city. Think it's fun to feel that it is high torque/burnout and great to win a red light race.)
See what others are running. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...lley&highlight=what+ignition+are+you+running? A big plus of using MSD or other replacement distributors is the ability to adjust or lock out the mechanical advance.
Thanks Yes most of you seem to have special distributor and control unit. But I think that the thread is over 10 years old so maybe there are new parts and experiences today. Feels like a lot of money for the finest pieces since I do not race on the track with the car. So if choose the MSD 8552, my current adjustable vacuum crane cannister and Mr. Gasket bushing fits in it? Sounds like you both have to search old parts in good condition and knowing what to do, but it might be easier than I think?
The fact that the thread is 10 years old doesn't really mean anything. Guys are still using the same parts. The MSD distributors come with their own bushings. Not sure if the vacuum advance will fit.
I contacted MSD and asked about their RTR 8552 distributor could achieve the same results as my modified distributor. I got the following response but are unsure if it was a yes or no? - Will it be possible set it like the V8buick powertiming guide? 2500rpm, limited vacuum, ~31+10
Thanks. I think I'll buy enough one, and maybe renovate the old in the future. (Afraid that several things can be damaged by clumsy handling of the ignitor conversion parts.) The connectors on distributor cap looks like the spark plugs, so my current (new) ignition cables should fit or do I need to have their special sets?
Those are GM big cap HEI terminals. You may be able to use your stock GM cap on that distributor body. It has socket terminals. Otherwise you'll have to change the wire ends.
I have browsed after ignition cables and maybe buy MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire Sets "31193" or red 31189. Just want to double check if anyone thinks it's a bad choice, or have a better suggestion? Or if I should take a chance and just replace the contacts on my current 7mm. But I do not know if you can buy them loose without cables.
I say buy the universal kit. That way the wires will be perfect length. You trim the wire and install the distributor end. They give you a tool to do it. The ratcheting pliers are better though.
I'm done with preparing the electric and finding TDC. Just need to choose best curve (bushing & springs) MSD stock vacuum cannister seems to give 10 vacuum advance. Not sure if I am ready to try install my crane cannister yet. I have been running on silver springs, 33+10 gave me pings. 31 + 10 worked but wasn't fun. Probably due to the carburetor. I like to find something close to the power guide, but all MSD examples are shown under 30degrees so not sure how to think?
The curves in the chart don't include initial advance. The closest to the power timing thread would be curve E with the blue bushing. Set it to roughly 10-11* initial and it should give you 30-32* all in by 2400. It also won't add mechanical advance until 1400 or so. With 10* vacuum advance you're looking at 42* total cruise advance at 2400 and up.
Thanks. When i replaced one spring to achieve the E example, I noticed that the gear was damaged. My instincts tell me that i should replace it, but perhaps it isn't that sensitive?
It doesn't look like it's been installed in the car yet. I would contact MSD and see if they will replace the distributor with a new one.
If it is brand new and never been run, I'd want a new one. If it is used, I'd touch it with a piece of scotchbrite to get any stray particles off and run it. The gears don't wear up on that edge if you look at an old one.
