I noticed the past week or so that when stopped, I am holding the pedal down almost all the way to keep the car stopped in gear (like at a red light). I only have to push a hair more before the pedal is pushed all the way down. When stopping from a roll, I don't feel like braking power is compromised, but I am having to push down more that I used to. Today I noticed some seepage around where the master cylinder bolts up to the booster (I have power brakes, all drums), but the fluid level is good. After looking at some prices, it looks like it makes way more sense to replace the master cylinder than rebuild it (unless you are going for one from year one at $129!). I am a little unsure which cylinder to buy though. I see that there are 1" bore and 1 1/8" bore cylinders listed for my car on Rock Auto. Looks like the 1 1/8" are for disc brakes? Also, some have two identical domes on the cover (like mine), others have different domes, and the Borg Warner has one big rectangular section on the cover. Which one do y'all recommend? Thanks!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-DBMC07/?rtype=10 There's this one too, and it comes with 20 summit bucks, not a bad deal.
What's wrong with something from Rockauto for about $50 less? DORMAN Part # M76162 w/Power Disc Brakes; Bore = 1-1/8" $20.79
I am totally fine with that, I just wanna make sure I get a quality part that is the right part.... that one says it's for disk brakes... There is a Raysbestos, Centric, Wagner, and Delco part for drum brakes. The Wagner has a different lid, other than that is there really a difference?
Get a quality new unit.....for disc brakes......Wagner/TRW all are made by the same company....I think Raybestos is the same.
So the disk brake cylinder will also work for drums? I didnt realize that. Guess that will simplify things if I ever do a conversion in the future. Will the disk brake cylinders with the 1 1/8 bore give better braking performance to a drum setup?
I thought you said you had disc brakes. My mistake. But, if you can push the pedal all the way to the floor, I think first off you need to bleed the brakes. From what I have read, the disc brake master has a larger reservoir for the front discs because they use more fluid due to the huge piston. If you have drums all around, I would just get a drum master. But before buying anything, give that system a really good flush and bleeding.
Don't use a remanufactured master. Use a new one. The NAPA number is M2040 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NMAM2040_0332904820 That's the one for 4 wheel drum. I never install reman clutchs/alt/starters/master cyl's/slave cyl's. Way to many problem's/come backs with reman stuff. Make sure you bench bleed the MC before you install it on the vehicle also. Good Luck :TU:
No worries, I thought about flushing it, but it's the leak that I figure is the issue.... then I saw that a rebuild kit is about as much as a new cylinder that is not all rusted to hell like mine, so I figured might as well replace it. Thanks for the help guys!
I got the cylinder David recommended. I have been bench bleeding it per the instructions using the little blue plugs supplied in the kit (this kit does not use hoses that you insert into the reservoir while bench bleeding. It took a looong time, but I think I finally got it bench bled, and I want to make sure it is done right. While pushing on the piston, a stream of fluid comes out of the front hole in the front reservoir (towards the front of the car if it was mounted). This front reservoir seemed to bleed fast, as it only took a few pumps before there were no bubbles and a stream of fluid was coming out. As for the back, bubbles kept coming out for the longest time; it seemed like an eternity! The bubbles FINALLY stopped coming out of the aft reservoir, however, there is not a stream of fluid that shoots out like the front reservoir. Is this what is supposed to be happening? Should it shoot fluid from both reservoirs, no reservoirs, or out of one and not the other?
You should be all set. It's better to run hoses from those ports up into the brake fluid, but what you did works, just takes forever as you found out. Good Luck :TU:
You can keep the knew iron MC clean and rust free by shooting it with clear lacquer or equivalent; and it will still look like bare iron.
I shot mine with heat paint (Black) and then with the clear. It came out looking real nice :TU: . I then went to bleed it and brake fluid was pi$$ing out the rear of the MC, I got a new one and now I have to start over, I guess the 1st one was just practice. :Brow: :Brow: :Brow:
Bad news, I just went to install the new MC on the car, and the pushrod coming out of my vacuum booster is really long. The old MC had a deep recess in the piston for it to fit into, the new MC does not, so it wont fit on the car... The box says MC2040, and the parts look the same except for the damn piston. Now what?
You have the wrong p.booster input rod...that is for 68-70 models which had the deep counterbore to keep the rod in place......you should be able to unscrew the rod and change to the short one.
Hmm that's weird! I guess the car didn't have power brakes originally and swapped this unit in here, or just pulled a junkyard part for a replacement... is that something a parts store would carry or you lol? Could I just cut it down maybe? edit: removed the old rod, it just pulls right out.... now to source the proper rod...
Here is a pic showing the two...longer one is 4" for pre-71 models. 71-up are 2.5" Yes, if you know someone with a lathe....easy and quick job...don't know if NAPA will carry it....may have to come from a salvage yard....should be from any 71-77 GM A-body and maybe full size...just has to be 2.5" overall length. Let me know what you find out.....I can sell the 2.5" if needed.
Oi, my brakes are still haunting me. I have not had a lot of time to mess with them due to work and vacation, but I have got to get this issue fixed. So it started as a leaky master cylinder. I got a NAPA replacement, bench bled it, and installed it. Then there was an issue with fluid not getting to the rear wheels. The rear flex hose was shot, and the hard line nut was destroyed while removing said nut. So now I have a new front to rear hardline and rubber line installed as well as new rear axle lines. I bled all 4 corners, and more crud, old fluid, and air came out. I finally stopped seeing air come out (using speed bleeders) but I still have a soft pedal when the car is running and it does not stop very well. Could there be more air in there even though each wheel pumped 3-4 times without air coming out while bleeding them? This issue is driving me bonkers. It's about to get driven very slowly to a shop down the street...
You might want to check (mic) the drums and make sure they have not been cut past max, also brake shoe adjustment. Both of those things in combination could affect pedal height.
