New Flywheel

Hey guys, I am looking for recommendations on a new flywheel for my 72GS 455 4 spd. Mine is original and I had it resurfaced twice last spring due to a clutch chatter issue that arose with the new clutch install. Worried it is too thin for future use, but havent measured yet. My plan to sort out the chatter soon leads me to think a new one may help.Aluminum or steel? Brand? Motors is basically stock and the car isn't raced. Right now it has a Cneterforce DF, but not sure I'll keep it again due to chatter problems with two of them. Thanks for the advice. Steve

 

I put a new clutch in my car early last summer. I used a TA Performance billet flywheel (TA 2038) and a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. I am very pleased with it so far (last summer I put almost 4 000 miles on it).

 

TA billet, also get the bolt kit from TA.

 

Thanks Guys. I'll go that way. Interested if anyone knows why the TA folks recommend a stock type throw out bearing vs the Centerforce ones when ordering the DF clutch kit? I am using the Centerforce TO bearing.Could that be contributing to my clutch chatter? I'm also hoping to use the clutch and PP thta I installed last spring . Only has about 1000 miles of street use on it. Just worried it will show burn marks like the first one we installed. Would that render it unusable? Thanks

 

I suspect there is another issue. I have used the same centerforce clutch on several cars including a four speed stage 1. I have not seen this issue.

 

JIm, I agree. I've learned more than I want to know about clutch related issue and , while part of me says just drive it witht he chatter, another realy wants it to be right - especially since it was fine before. I've been thinking a lot about bellhousing alignment, mostly because everything else seems to have been done spot on. and the second clutch had less chatter than the first set. Makes me think perhaps the bellhousing was simply a bit closer the second time by chance. These jobs are typically pretty simple, and I've helped do them in driveways as a youth, but something is odd here. Just thought I should eliminate issues and , as a matter of good sesne, get a new flywheel in place as the one in it was original and hard to know how many resurfaces were done. The only thing we know we changed ( aside for the clutch kit itself) was the clutch fork - using the correct BB fork on a CF TO bearing. Really anxious to find the gremlin. Steve

 

Worn pilot bearing may contribute to chatter by allowing the shaft nose to wiggle. Even if it was installed new, check the fit in the crank and on the nose of the shaft.
Check runout on the discs in case the weight of the trans was allowed to hang on the clutches during last install. Not likely but I'd still look at it.
A light weight flywheel will not have much inertia to get your car moving. Engine will die easily on take off from stop. Aliminum flywheel is great for low geared car launching at 4000 rpm or higher.
Driving a high geared car builds more heat in clutch assembly than lower gear. Good starting gear ratio is 9 or 10 to 1.
Example....4.10 rear x 2.5 low gear is 10.25 ratio.
.....3.55 rear x 2.2 low gear is a bit high at 7.80 ratio.
My El Camino had 3.08 rear and about 2.5 low and I hated that 7.2 ratio. Had to skin some clutch or kill the engine to get going. Installed a tranny with 3.09 low and the 9 to 1 ratio was peppy and fun to drive.
It was Easy on the clutch!

 

Thanks, Gary. That makes good sense to me. The old pilot bushing basically fell out when we did the work last spring and a new one was installed. We'll check that. The flywheel looked fine when we took it apart the first time , only had burning with the new clutch kit ( we'll see if the second new one did the same). I think the new billet flywheel will be prudent.Lots to look at when we tear it apart. Would love a simple fix like a pilot bushing! Appreciate the info on alumiiu, vs steel. Steve