(Never done it before) I want to attempt a brake change.

I keep getting these offers for changing the brakes in the mail, but since I would rather try to do it myself, I'll have to ask for your help. I want to start with the front disc brakes to begin with. It seems they're binding some, if I raise the wheel it won't spin freely. It's a bit uneven on both sides how much they bind if I remember correctly. This probably means I have to have the rotors cut to fix this problem or could it be something else, like a wheel bearing? I guess you find out when you take the caliper off. How much is it to have the rotors cut usually? Should I get a spare set from the junk yard and have them cut before I start to have everything ready for the swap? What other rotors fit the centurion, is it a standard item for the b-body cars, what years fit etc? What kind of pads should I go for, brands, material choice, price etc? The front brakes were done just before I bought the car (2.5 years ago), but I don't like the binding and if I'm fixing that I might as well change the pads too. You also need a clamp of some kind to compress the brakes right, what is is called? Can I find one on ebay? I've only seen someone do this once, and I asked if I could stay and look. If I get all the gear ready I believe I can do it with your help. Is there anything else I should think of, something I haven't mentioned?

Any help is as always greatly appreciated.

 

you say binding ...? could be the caliper is frozen.....

your rotors might be able to get cut..but they have to be measured ...they are stamped on the rotor usualy....but I believe new ones are not that expensive...also calipers... o No:


the special clamp...?? nah...you can use a regular c-clamp or bench vise ..
....or the old pads and 2 long wrenches cris-crossed for scissor like homemade piston pusher...


if your budget allows it.... o No:
call your local auto parts joint up....get price on new rotors and calipers and bearings and seals(inners and outer bearings for both side..also inner and outer seals) and 2 cotter pins and wheel bearing grease and a qrt of brake fluid and a spray can of brake clean.....

my guesse...around/under $200

if your gonna do it ....do it right.. the motor and trans can go out.. but when ya gotta stop ya gotta stop !!

 

your rotors are the most expensive I believe..( average $60 I'm guessing..)

but if you buy at junk yard and then have them cut ..your saving maybe 50% of price of new ones..

...btw...it about time you learned how to do front brakes...there are plenty besides me that will guide you through...

imo.. I think its more tedious to get the front of car lifted and the tires off than the actual brake job itself..... :grin:

 

Exactly what do you mean by binding? GM disk brakes will always have the pads in slight contact with the rotors, so there's always going to be a little drag on them. If you spin the tire by hand, how hard is it, and how far will it spin on its own? Should be fairly easy to spin, and it should be able to do at least one turn on it's own. If not, get some screwdrivers and pry the pads apart off of the rotor and see how it turns.

Does the car pull to one side? Do the brakes pulse or shudder when applied? Are the pads worn down to less than 1/8-inch or so? If none of the above, and the wheel will turn fairly freely, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

If you do need to tear into it, you can get all the parts from nearly any local partsmonkey, they're pretty common across lots of GM cars and years.

Tools - 2 long screwdrivers or wrenches of prybars will shove the piston back into the caliper, especially if you do it before you remove the caliper from the car and you can use the old pads to pry against. Otherwise, I think the only special tool you need is a big allen wrench (maybe 3/8") to get the caliper bolts out. Oh, and one of those funnel-looking bearing grease-packers that goes on a greasegun is REAL handy for packing the bearings. :TU: Way easier than using the palm of your hand.

Your rotors should be smooth, and not be worn down below the min spec (stamped in them somewhere). If they're rough/scored and will turn down safely, then go ahead and have them cut, should be about $10 each. If you have any doubts, GET NEW ONES.

Pads - there are lots of options out there, lots of marketing hype as well. Metallic pads will dissipate heat better than old-style organic pads, but can be noisy, especially on damp mornings. I've heard mixed reviews on the new ceramic pads, several people say they're noisy all the time. I've used metallic pads for years, but I did have a pair that was noisy all the time (I returned them).

Bearings - If yours aren't dragging (spin the rotor with the brake pads retracted), and you don't see any corrosion/gouging/grooves/etc, I'd simply repack them and move on. You might want to replace the inner grease seal if it looks worn/torn, but if it's not and it's not leaking it's a matter of opinion.

Oh, get ready to get dirty, brakes are the funkiest part of any car!

And don't forget the back ones - it won't hurt to replace their springs. :Smarty:

 

Thanks for the help guys, next time the car is in behind the house I'll double check the binding and maybe take some pics so everything is under control. Then we'll proceed from there.

When I had the riviera, the wheels would spin freely, for like 20 turns, but the centurion's will only spin one turn or so. I also notice how the riviera would roll a lot better down hill, and accelerate by itself, while the centurion still needs some gas to keep up with traffic while going down hill.

 

in that case somethings binding...(try that once in nuetral gear also...just in case)

when you stomp on the brakes does your car pull to any side..??

also feel the tempature by hand on the front rims /hub and also the rears...

spins once or twice ...sound like you caliper pistons are not returning...


*** could also be a pinched brake hose or line...I have seen brake hoses look like brand new on the outside but screwed up internaly

when your ready for the brake job ...we will have you turn your front tires by hand ...while your bleeder screw on caliper is lose ....this will cancel out and clue us in on any line/hydraulic problems..

 

The car stops fine, and it doesn't pull to either side. It does have some play in the brake pedal though that I wouldn't mind losing.

I'll try the Drive > Neutral test while going down hill too

 

Yeah, sounds like the calipers aren't releasing...spin the wheel, pry the pads off of the rotor, spin again (should go forever), then apply the brakes and spin again. If there's a difference between spin #1 and #3, then there's likely some rust inside the caliper that's holding the piston out, and you moved it out of the way when you pried the pads apart.

You can rebuild the calipers, it involves cleaning them thoroughly and replacing a seal, but I've found it's often simpler/cheaper to replace them. Be sure and get the lifetime ones and save the receipt :TU:

Heck, looking at www.partsamerica.com, it looks like you can get calipers with pads in them for about $35 each, or just the calipers for about $16, and rotors from $44 to $80. That's cheaper than I'd have guessed for lifeteim calipers!

 

OH, if you end up replacing the rotors, somewhere on this board awhile back somebody posted the cross-reference numbers to use GM pickup truck rotors that were better ventilated, maybe even cross-drilled or grooved. Worth looking for, imho.

 

Jamyers....lets open up a brake shop :bglasses:

 

Sure! :beer But looks like one of us is going to have a heck of a commute... :laugh:

 

we set up camp smack dab in the middle..between us both...

puts us about northeast corner of Oklahoma...



R & J brakes

I'm older... I think..

.................................
just came back from checking your profile...I beat ya buy a year... :laugh:

R&J it is...

 

The wheels are tweeting in the front now and I believe it's the bearings.. I went and picked up:

inner & outer bearings + seals for both sides.
Pads
Rotors
heat resistant grease...

It was 120$..


Some day soon I'll just dig in, but I want to get a steering box and some new springs for it too first.

 

ok...sounds good....

let us know how the calipers are when you push the pistons in....

bcs sometimes a sticking caliper will get hot hot and the grease would melt from bearings and then bearings go kapoot...


oh and make sure you pack them bearings correctly ...palm of your hand correctly....not just the oustide of bearing ...but mostly internaly of bearings..

 

Wouldn't hurt to pick up some brake fluid and flush some out of the calipers just to see if it's all rusty-colored. Stick a clean rubber hose over the end of the bleeder screw with the other hose end in a clear container. Then have somebody push on the brake pedal while you crack open the bleeder, and close it before they let off the pedal (so's you don't suck air back in). The fluid should look pretty much like new, maybe a shade darker - if it's really dark and has bits of junk in it, then I'd replace the calipers as well.

 

Sounds good to me, there's a pretty neat lake there, I think it's called Grand Lake. Although I don't think I'd get much work done with a lake nearby... :laugh: :Brow:

 

Packing the bearings is the "fun" part - I hate it. It's easy, but I don't like having grease all over my hands. Make sure you put the cotter pin in when you have the assembly together. It sounds like you're on your way - have fun, brakes are easy.

 

I'm telling you, that funnel-looking bearing-packing tool is worth every penny! I was skeptical of them until I used one and watched it shoot grease into every part of the bearing! :TU:

 

It was all going well until it was time to change the caliper.. The allen bolt on the caliper is rounded and the little brake line bolt is getting rounder and rounder. I just saw that there is something called a "line wrench" and I'm trying to track one down. I see that craftsman makes em so sears is my best bet but they won't pick up the phone in the tools dept ou: .. New hoses are available at the local autozone so hopefully we're not totally stuck.. And I really hope the line wrench will do it..

 

Line wrench = flare nut wrench, a kind of cross between an open-end and a box-end wrench - grips more of the nut. Good idea to have a set around for brake and fuel lines. Soak the nuts/bolts in penitrating oil, give them a tap with a hammer sometimes knocks them loose.