Hi All, My clutch chatters when first engaging and it makes noise (probably throw-out bearing) when in nuetral and the clutch is out. I did a search on the forums and it seems like most people like the CENTERFORCE II clutch. Can anyone tell me the correct part numbers (11"?) for a complete replacement set; clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing? Also, any suggestions on a good reference manual or shop manual for replacing the clutch? I'm confident I can just go ahead and get it done but I always prefer to have a good reference on hand. THanks.....as always for the help! Rob
Centerforce dual friction from Summit. Low pedal pressure. I have one in our X. It came with a line up shaft If not you need one. You neeed toi verify the number of splines on you trans shaft. You need a throw out bearing and perhaps a Lakewood adjustable pivot ball.Summit also. Better have the fly wheel resurfaced while you are in there.
Jim, I checked the Summit site and they list a 10.4" and an 11" clutch. Which one did you use? I also checked on the pivot ball and the throwout bearing. Which throwout bearing did you use (there are several ones listed)? Can I tell the number of splines without removing the transmission? Otherwise I will have to remove everything to tell and then order the parts. Thanks!
Get the code off the side of the trans --passenger side. The original trans spline count is the course one --something like ten as I recall. I used the centerforce throw out as I recall. The thickness is not the same as stock so unless you use the adjustable pivot ball the geomety may be an issue.
Having gone thru this a number of times, here are some pointers: 1. Go with the 11" clutch. It gives more surface area and can handle the torque better 2. The throw out bearing should be the same for GM vehicles. I think the # is 1716 - check the catalog 3. As Jim says, have the flywheel resurfaced. 4. I like to use blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts and the pressure plate bolts 5. Be sure you install the clutch disc correctly. There will be a sticker that says "Flywheel Side" 6. Another common mistake is attaching the throw out bearing incorrectly on the clutch fork. There is only one way to do it. 7. I would also replace the pilot bearing 8. If you are using GM stuff (flywheel, clutch fork, etc.) DO NOT use anything but the GM pivot ball. The pedal geometry will be off. If you use an aftermarket bell housing or flywheel, then you may need one. *** If anyone uses the Lakewood adjustable pivot, be sure to use Loctite on it. It will loosen over time, and you will need to take EVERYTHING apart to fix it....ask me how I know......*** 9. Make sure that all the surfaces are clean. Any oil on the flywheel and clutch will cause chatter 10. If you are doing this on jackstands, you need to do a couple of things: get some threaded rod the same diameter as the trans attaching bolts. Cut slots in one end, and cut to about 3" long. Thread 2 of these into the bell housing at the top two holes. They will be used to help guide the tranny into the bellhousing. You need to use the alignment tool to get the disc centered. THIS IS A KEY STEP, because if everything is not lined up, the tranny WILL NOT go in. The tranny will slide all the way in and touch the bellhousing if everything is lined up. DO NOT try to pull the tranny in with the attaching bolts - you will break an ear off the tranny. What I do is install the flywheel and clutch parts. Put the bellhousing on, and attach the pedal parts. One person will be wiggling the tranny in while someone is in the car depressing the pedal. This can be a tough job on jackstands, and if you have a lift, it is much easier. Also, be sure to lube everything, and use the proper torque settings on the bolts. Good Luck!
:gp: Good jackstand directions--especially about lining the tranny up so as to avoid breaking an ear! Pete
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...908256+4294906819+4294925081+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partd...908256+4294906819+4294791147+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CTF-53010 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CTF-53010 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK-15501&N=700+115&autoview=sku The 1716 throw out bearing was not the same thickness as the one in ours thus I went with the adjustable ball in combo with the 1716. I In any case this one is far better than stock with low, low pedal pressure which is why it costs more. Make sure you find out the spline count as you could have a different year trans and it could be a 26 spline shaft.
Paul, Thanks for some great advice. Unfortunately I do NOT have a lift and will be doing this on Jack stands...ugh! Sounds like the threaded rod is to act as a stud to guide the tranny and keep it "squared" during the process of sliding it into the bellhousing? Do you have a GOOD shop manual you would recommend I have as a reference for this project? Thanks again!!
Paul, One other thing.... you suggest replacing the pilot bushing. I've never done that so please tell me what's involved. Are special tools required for this task? Please give a novice some more details. Thanks
Jim, Thanks for the links to the Summit parts. I think I'll use the 11" clutch for my project. I guess it comes as a kit with the clutcha nd pressure plate. I did take pictures of my tranny to get the numbers to decode it. Is that enough to confirm what spline count I have so I can order the correct clutch? Here's my tranny numbers and what I "think" the corect decode is. I am also uncertain of a couple of numbers: 3925660 1968 – 1970 1" Bore Patent Number P8R27 Muncie, 1968, October-27 ** 38M170213 I DO NOT KNOW WHAT THIS NUMBER MEANS???? ** 3846429 I DO NOT KNOW WHAT THIS NUMBER MEANS???? THanks!
There are 2 ways: Hillbilly or pro mechanic......o No: 1. The hillbilly way is to pack the pilot hole with grease, and then use a dowel. Take a hammer and drive the the dowel into the pilot hole. 2. The easier way is to get a puller designed for pulling the pilot bushing. I like #2 method better.......:TU:
What about servicing the shift linkage? Since I'll have the tranny out during the clutch replacement is there any recommended servicing of the shift linkage? Are there bushings or bearings that should be replaced or greased. Please give me some directions on what I should do to the shifter linkage since I'll have it accessable during this project. THanks!
Oct 68 M21 Munciie so it has the 10 spline input shaft. You need the 10 spline clutch pressure plate assembly I referenced. For a streetr driven car I think you will like the dual friction unless you want to really build up the muscles in the left leg.
Re: What about servicing the shift linkage? There are some thin washers to take out the slop. I cannot remember right now the source of the kit. Also check to see if the retaining pins are all the same and in place. They use the GTO type.
Wave washers - P/N 9428369 Retaining Clips - P/N 12338114 Bushing, reverse linkage to steering column - P/N 1394293 All good GM part numbers......:laugh:
The Buick Service manual has all the details. If your car has a factory Hurst Comp Plus shifter, I would have it rebuilt by Hurst. The rubber bushings are available from Pete Serio at Precision Pontiac. It is also a good time to replace the rear seal in the transmission as well. Be aware that getting the tranny in can be difficult. The method that i outlined before works good, but it is a 2 man job. I would take all the levers off the tranny, regrease, and put on new wave washers and clips. That will tighten up the linkage considerably.
