need some pros & cons on aftermarket rear control arms

been looking at all the after market rear control arms the Hotchkis,Umi ,Global West and many others ..

I understand its firms everything up for the rear end ....But does it compromise the ride of car ....????

we not going racing ......just city cruising...w/occasional burnouts :Brow: you know ...

and possibly I have a fella locally selling a complete set of hotchkis used (a few months old) off his chevelle for a good price,
says he is going to some high end stuff ...currie I think ...w/all that adjustable stuff

 

The rubber bushings GM used are flexible and dampen vibrations. I installed polygraphite bushings everywhere in my car (pre V8Buick) and I took them out of the rear upper arms because they made the rear too stiff and it would bounce over bumps. IMHO, if you're not racing I think you'ld be better off with the stock stuff.

 

I also put polygraphite all around in my car. It is a very firm ride. I would probably go with rubber if I had to do it over again for a smoother overall feel.

 

Currie Lowers, Edelbrock uppers if you are looking for performance plus a good ride. If you get the hotchkis stuff plan on putting new Moog rubber bushings in (cannot verify that stock bushings work in their stuff.) What most people do not realize is that if the rear suspension is completely rebuilt to new specs it will work pretty darn good. Find someone that has done a complete restoration and they will tell you that the cars are great to drive (racing is a different story.)

 

I just put a new Hotchkis TVS system in my car. You can definantly feel the difference as far as the rear being a little stiffer, especially when you accelarate from a complete stop. In my opinion, I don't think it has compromised the ride at all. I have the Hotchkis upper A-arms with the 12" disc brake package waiting to be installed, but am waiting to get the lower A-arms which Hotchkis says will be out Aug 20th.

 

yes ..did some internet research and I see many people with A bodies saying ..for street use ...

"Upper arms need rubber bushings or spherical bearings at both ends for the rear to move and articulate through its full range of motion. "


and also about the adjustable uppers/lowers ...that many people screw up their angles up on the rear end to driveshaft...sounds like something I would do

so yes it seems stock size type are best for me ..

Global West (pricey) even states that they don't approve of poly bushings for street use...

 

Frank,
Check this site out.Great products and alot less than overpriced Hotchkiss and the other "big" names. One good thing about tubular...I fit a 3 inch exhaust in there where I was hitting components before..I could honestly get 4 inch in as well.
http://www.umiperformance.com/

 

For what you are looking for, a good cruiser, does not require aftermarket control arms. Here is a possible recipe for what you are doing.
1. make sure you have the brace that connects the upper and lower control ams at the frame, this was factory on most big block a-bodies
2. Box the lower control arms. There are some nice kits to make it easy less than $100
3. New Moog rubber bushings.
4. New shocks, good tires. Phil gets great results from Edlebrocks, I found that cheap gas charged from Autozone worked better than my Afco race shocks. My race friends are not happy with the QA1's had lots of problems with leaking.
5. Make sure springs are not shot. Factory ride heights had the front slightly higher than the rear. I like to have .5 to 1 inch high at the high at the rear. Measure this at the frame.

If you are looking for more than a good street/ cruise car then the discussion gets a little different. But at the rear end with a stock 350 you just do not need to a bunch of after market parts.

 

Doug....you make it sound boring and besides I like the look of them
after markets ....:laugh: you took the fun away ...:spank: me

But I imagine you are correct and I will most likely go that way ...:grin:

and yes I have that brace from my gs ...at least let me buy that after market one ,they look beefier... :idea2:

maybe save my $$ for the global west front control arm set o No:

or just keep it simple and get the thing on the road ...


btw... did I tell you my 350 pushes over 490hp


in my dreams

 

Frank,
I have to break this to you gently, It's only the outer fringes of gearheads that look under the car before they look under the hood (I happen to be one of those.) I have spent far more on suspension mods than body work. Just wanted to let you know what would work for the scenario you described.

Here's the list on mine.
Chevy 12 bolt rear
Currie lower control arms, Edlebrock upper control arms, Edelbrock brace(sure looks good under there )
Autozone shocks, unknown springs but give me good ride height, air bags
275/60/15 Nitto drag radial, American Racing 8 inch rims (Salt Flats)
7/8 sway bar

Front
Helwig 1 3/8 sway bar poly bushings (GW thinks this bar is too big but allows me to run a reasonable spring rate and corner really flat)
Global West upper control arms all rubber bushings on control arms
Tall spindles from Caprice police car, 12 inch brakes
GW S-48 springs
Jeep fast ratio steering box
245/50/15 Yokohoma's on 8" Salt Flats Cannot find a more aggressive tire for 15 inch wheels but these work good

Now all that work on the suspension and what does it get you at shows.... zilch. On the other hand this car is a joy to drive. It rides like a Buick and will corner far in excess of what you can try on the street. When I am driving to events that have a lot of cars they are usually in the left lane and I am clicking along at 80 to 85.

Things I might think about adding would be Wolfecraft upper control arm bushings at the rear axle. But to tell the truth boxing the control arms and setting them up with Z28 rubber bushings could work just as well. The front end work is a far bigger payoff for driving. The control arm bushings and tall spindles give you geometry that cannot be matched with stock.

Get it on the road and drive. We need all the Buicks we can get out there.

 

I have UMI upper and lower on my 67 442. I also put tubular front upper and lowers. I also put in KYB shocks, new springs and a quick ratio steering box. It now handles like a modern car. I love it!
Harvey

 

My car is an all out drag car but I have spoken to the UMI people at Carlisle and was really happy I bought their products. On my rear,I have UMI tubular non adjustables on the lowers and Auto Weld (local racecar manufacturer) adjustable uppers. Like I said,you have plenty of cushion if installing a 3 inch exhaust. Perhaps on a street car.I'd go some rubber others poly bushings,but I am not planning on being gentle with my car. Turnaround time for the UMI'S was 6 days.

 

after researching and personal opinions of others ...

end result is ....

*stock lower boxed lca w/rubber bushings and sway bars
*edelbrock uca with the spherical bearings on frame side and rubber on r/e side
*new hotchkis trailing arm brace
*global west lower and upper controls arms up front ...no,I am not made of money ..just had to have em
*new springs/shocks of course
*new spindle ..stock height /stock brakes

all in the mail and no turning back...:grin: I'm broke for a few month$ now



next we see about one of them fast ratio steering gear boxes ou:

 

Frank,
That should be a great street setup. We are going to do the same at the rear of our GN. That Hotchkis brace looks interesting. I wonder if you can add some stiffness with a little preload on it.

Start hitting the yards for a Jeep steering box. The Jeep has 43 degrees of arc, you need all you can get. Look for links on this. I did mine for $100.

 

Thanks for that link:TU: .

 

hitting a yard would be a vacation for me ...I work 13/7 ou:

jeep? jeep cherokee..?? what years ...I been on the look out for ss M/C GN's and 442's

 

all my controls arms came in today ...all but my boxed rears ..on back orderou:

cant wait ....


but ...look at this guys monster frame set up ....:3gears: very wicked and big money ....

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169873&highlight=pics+global+west

 

I have driven Doug's GS, and will attest to the fact that it handles ,drives , and stops like no other I have driven ( I wish mine drove as well, but I'm too lazy and old to do the job) He really did the research and it shows!o No:

 

I just installed Hotchkis adjustable uppers and Hothckis lowers with their brace and the 1 inch rear sway bar with moog cc501 springs and monroe gas shocks. And it is a little firmer but not bad. Hey is it a muscle car or grandma's grocery getter. I have had many a truck that rides like a log wagon and this setup isn't even close it.

 

got home last night and of course I had to bolt up a few items to the frame :grin: ( like a kid on Christmas morning)

on my upper control arms on the frame side is it normal to have a bit of slack ..like maybe a bit more than 1/8 of an inch ?

will the fame bracket tighten up ok when Torque it down properly ?


bcs if I remember the stock uca was snug like in between the frame brackets ..