I'M LOOKING FOR SOME HELP ON MY 1967 BUICK GS WITH A 340. MY 340 IS ON IT'S LAST LEGS AND NEED TO HAVE IT REBUILT, BUT MONEY FORCES ME TO LOOK AT OTHER OPITIONS TO REBUILD.....DOES ANYONE KNOW IF A 1968 BUICK 350 WILL BOLT INTO MY 1967 340. LOCAL REBUILD PRICE OUT AT $3500 TO FIX MY 340, BUT CAN FIND LONG BLOCK REBUILT 1968 350 FOR ABOUT $1000....WILL THE 350 GO IN MY SPACE FOR 340...ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT THANK YOU
The 350 should be a bolt-in job. I have a question about the rebuild prices. $1000 for a 350 BUICK rebuilt long block seems too low to me. Are you sure they aren't talking about a 350 Chevy? Also, now that I think about it, I've never met a 340 owner who had their engine rebuilt. Why do you think it's worn out? Those engines are dirty and smoke alot even in good condition.
340 TO 350 SWAP THANKS FOR THE MAIL, PRICE LIST ON-LINE DO NOT REMEMBER COMPANY NAME..DID ENGINE SEARCH. MY MECHANIC THAT WORKS ON MY CAR AND WIFE IROC...AND HAS FOR EIGHT YEARS HAS BEEN TRYING TO SOLVE IDLE AND PAUSE PROBLEM WITH MY ENGINE HAVE REPLAVE CARB..WITH NEW HOLLY AND HE HAS TESTED THAT TO MAKE SURE IT WAS OKAY AND FOUND NO PROBLEMS, HAS LOCATED THAT I'M GETTING NO VACCUMM AND IS PROABLY CAUSED BY WORN VAVLES...SUGGESTED REBUILD TO SOLVE PROBLEM, I'M NOT BURNING OIL AND ALL PLUGS SEEM TO BE FIRING THE SAME....ANY MORE FIND BACK WOULD BE GREAT...WILL A BUICK 350 MATCH TRANS BOLT PATTERN AND WHAT ABOUT FRONT BRACKETS.................THANKS
I believe that a leakdown tester can pretty accuratley pinpoint the valves as a leak source. Redoing the valves is nowhere near as expensive as replacing a block. Perhaps you should get some other quotes, including removing the heads yourself and bringing to a machine shop. The 340 and 350 footprint is the same, and the same transmissions (like the ST300) were used for both.
340 SWAP TO 350 THANKS FOR THE FIND BACK..WHAT IS A LEAK DOWN TEST???? BY REBUILDING THE TOP HALF OF THE ENGINE PRESENT POSSIBLE PROBLEMS DOWN THE ROAD FOR THE RINGS???? ON THE BOLT IN FOR THE 350...DOES ALL THE BRACKETS FOR POWER STEERING, ALTANATOR PULLYS,ETC.....MATCH UP TO THE 68 350...THANKS
Go onto www.google.com and search for "leakdown tester". You'll get several descriptions and products to buy. Don't know about the brackets; would suspect that you will need access to a complete junk engine to take needed parts from.
You should check out www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com, I personaly dont know how good they are, BUT come with a 75k warrenty..And the Buick 350 is around $1000 for a long block, $1400 for a long block 455 , they can add perf. parts for an extra charge
$3500 to do a stock rebuild on a 340 Buick? That's outrageous. A 340 should be only marginally more expensive to build than a 350 buick. And yes, a 350 will bolt right in, same mounts and all. The exhaust pipes will have to me modified to line up to the 350 manifolds as they will exit in a slightly different location than the 340 manifolds. Jim Burek P.A.E. ENTERPRISES
Jim, Well, I'm not so sure that $3500 is out of the ballpark. Back in 1996, when I inherited my car, I went to a local rebuilder who has been in business for many years. He had rebuilt a Pinto engine for a kit car for me back in the 1980's, and I knew he was reputable. He looked up all the parts for a 340 rebuild. Said he would only use the lower C/R 9.00 pistons for warranty reasons, and added it up to $2,700! This was six years ago. Luckily, with only 62,000 miles and many fuel and oil supplements, that engine is still running strong without so far without needing the rebuild. But, I did hear that $2700 price tag, which today might be close to $3500.
I still say it's outrageous. But hey, if someone wants to spend $3500 to rebuiltd a 340 engine , send them my way. I'd be glad to oblige. Jim Burek
Here's roughly what it cost me to rebuild my 300 - it was just finished about a month ago... Pistons - NOS Badger 10:1 - $180 Rings $80 Rod & Main Bearings $100 (something like that) Valves (new NOS at $5 each) $80 Rocker Arms (new NOS at $5 each) $80 Rocker Shafts (new NOS at $30 each) $60 Camshaft (Crower) $140 Lifters, Dual Springs, seals, retainer set (Crower) $220 Roller Timing Set (comp) $50 Timing Cover (new GM) $130 Oil Pump (Dynagear) $20 Oil Pump Booster (Dynagear) $20 Pushrods (new Melling at $3 each) $50 Soft Plugs $20 Gasket Set (Felpro) $70 These are all quality parts which comes to around $1500 in parts alone (assuming I didn't forget something). It has to make you wonder what these rebuilding companies are putting in their engines to be able to sell them at $1000??? 300 parts can't be that much more than 350 parts? These were discount prices - Note some of the cheap prices I was lucky to find on the NOS stuff. Look around on what machine shops are charging to do a valve job, or bore a block, grind a crank, resurface heads, etc - it adds up quick... I probably could have gotten away with not replacing some of the stuff - but the timing cover & valves were shot in my 37 year old motor. If I was going that far I may as well do the rocker arms / shafts so I did. If I had to do it over again, I would probably have just built a 455. But the numbers matched in my car / engine - so I made the call this way instead.
I completly rebuilt my 340 out of my 67 lark and it did run me about 3grand:jd: jest thouht i would let u know
