I have tried to remove this theater pipe from the manifold for two days. I have tried soaking in liquid wrench. That made no difference. Tried some heat, no good. If you can think of a good way to get that thing out I would love to hear it
Chuck, is there anything wrong with the pipe? If not, I would just keep it and reuse it - I've done so with other 4bbl intakes.
Nothing "wrong" with it persay , just not in very good condition. At this point I want it off just to prove I can. But if that dosn't work then I will use the manifold as is.
Perhaps someone has a tip to help. I found it impossible to remove some of those circular heater pipes as there was nothing good to grip them with and after all those years they almost become one with the intake.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Otherwise, You will have to cut it off close to the manifold, cut a couple slots down the inside of the fitting, being careful not to cut into the threads, and work the pieces out. Or, before cutting it, try heating the manifold with an oxy/acetylene torch till it glows red around the fitting (keep moving the torch), remove the heat and squirt cold water onto the inside of the fitting. Sometimes this "shocks" the fitting, causing it to shrink, thereby loosening the bond between it and the manifold, and immediatetly try to remove it (while the manifold is still hot). You may have to repeat the procedure a couple times to get it loose.... Let us know how it turns out.:TU:
Take out that good looking sending unit next to it and use some WD-40 and a day later use a good pipe wrench,that should do it.If it does not bother you,put the hose all the way down and nobody will be the wiser,but you. BrunoD.
Like Brat said,,,, I have removed a bunch of them by taping a hack saw blade so i had a handle and then cutting on each side from the inside and then collapsing the thing in on its self... also use heat and a sharp pointed punch and hammer to get it started... once it starts it gets easier from then on....if you had a big nut welded to it you could use a air wrench and socket on it.... big advantage....
I like the idea of welding a nut on and using the impact gun. BRUTE FORCE Getting it red hot and using water seams like it might crack the manifold, but I like the concept. I have been using liquid wrench, maybe try the WD40 see if it works any better.
You need to get it cherry red, not just hot. The cast iron will soak up alot of the heat, so Mapp gas might not be hot enough. I use acetylene. Heat the cast iron, not the pipe.
All I have is the mapgas so I will give that a try. I guess I might not have been appling enough heat because I was afraid of cracking the manifold.
The pipe won this time. I hate being beat. Oh well time to move on. Thanks everyone. Already painted and wating for my carb to come back from Everyday performance.
Some heater pipes aren't looking for anything logical. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some heater pipes just want to watch the world burn. I used masking tape and a can of engine enamel on mine, came right out :bla: .
Ace hardware has nipple removal tools. A hex with a toothed can passes from the inside when wrenched so it doesn't deform the nipple .. Work great for the brass ones.
Same fitting is giving me headaches in my 1965 special 4bbl convt - except I have a tiny leak that leaves a little puddle in the manifold bolt recess after I take her out for a drive. I did a pressure check and identified the fitting as the culprit. It is very annoying. I think I can get it out, though. I have two questions - 1) can I get a new one anywhere and 2) if not, what is the best way to seal it if I reuse the current one - teflon tape or some other type of product? Thanks.
I think dorman or mr. Gasket makes replacements,,,, and seal the threads with permatex 300 or teflon tape.....
Mmmmm... I had given up on mine...but now I have this renewed sense...like a man with a mission and plan!
what Ken said. PIPE WRENCH. not channel locks, not vice grips. Pipe wrench. A pipe wrench is also great for when you bust the head off of exhaust manifold bolts off and then get the manifold off but leave the stud. They're awesome when you need to put torque on something round. a few whacks with the hammer first also help. And the hardened teeth of the pipe wrench really bite into the pipe or softer metal.
They sell the heater hose fittings at Original Parts Group. I purchased a pipe nipple extraction set at Home Depot and tried to remove the part on my spare engine, but it could not get any traction and the extractor just spun (this was before finding the part at OPG). Luckily, when my 2bbl was replaced with the 4bbl the mechanic I had do it did not fully tighten the fitting so I will be able to get it out because I was able to tighten it some in an attempt to seal the leak. I'll post when the parts arrive and the leak is sealed. Thanks for the posts. I cannot wait for a leak free car!
