I've read all the posts I could find on pinion angle and this is what I came up with. It looks like there are basically a couple ways of doing this, which is right I have no idea. According to SSM instructions the engine/trans angle is not a factor you just add the pinion angle with driveline angle and call it good with about -2 to -4 and (MUST BE DOWN OR WHEEL HOP WILL OCCUR ACCORDING TO SSM INSTRUCTIONS). No consideration at all for U-joint angle or centerline parallelism of crank and pinion. The other method states that you must have equal but opposite angles, which would put the pinion pointing up(THIS GOES AGAINST SSM INSTRUCTIONS) but I found more post/links on this method so................... I have -1.5 down at the transmission seal flange(Energy Poly mount is tall), - 3.5 at the pinion. So I assume that I need to move the pinion up to +1.5(against SSM instructions) to equal zero driveline angle but then adding -2 to compensate for wind-up giving a finished pinion angle of -.5???? Did I actually get this right or am I out of line here?
John, According to your numbers you have a pinion angle of -5 degrees. Most set there pinion angle at around -2 degrees. This is exactly where I have mine. Pinion angle is the difference in the angle of the rear end to the angle of the drive train. Hope this helps.
Jeff, I think that's what I was trying to say in a round about way. I have -1.5 at the transmission seal flange, then I adjust my rear end for a -.5 giving me a total of -2 sound right??????
That is right John, I thought you may have been thinking that. I figured I would put it as simple as possible, because you are right too many ideas out there on how to set it up.
Something doesn't sound right, I have SSMs, if you have -1.5 @ the trans, and -3.5 @ the pinion, you have -5 deg. SSM says -2 to -4, I'd leave it, which may cause Ujoint failure in the future, MAY... or the easiest thing you can do is shim up the trans., a washer between trans and mount or between mount and cross member, would take alittle off the trans. angle, which when added to the -3.5 @ the rear you would be in the -2 to -4 range. The directions are pretty good, I still have mine, there are general illustrations on the last page which are very helpful. My '65 has -4 @ the trans. and "0" at the rear. If you don't like the options of "leave it alone", "shim the trans" you could buy adjustable upper control arms ($200+) or weld and redrill the upper control arm mount holes. Leaving it alone, and shimming with washers are very cheap and easy, and will not affect performance. Another "tip", loose rear shocks work best with SSMs', helps the rear "drop" to push up the suspension. Gary G.
