Necessary modification to Kleiner reproduction Zbar

Here is the modification I had to make to the GS Enterprises/Kleiner reproduction Zbar in order to get the Zbar-to-clutch-fork push rod to align.

My configuration: Entirely stock 1970 GS 455 3-speed manual (i.e. original bell housing, Muncie transmission, etc.)

The dirty original factory Zbar in the middle shows the twist in the lever arm. The reproduction arm is simply straight, so I discovered that I needed to make the same twist to the reproduction arm, using a large pipe wrench with the Zbar secured in a vice. Be sure to wrap the Zbar where the pipe wrench is used to avoid scratching/damaging the finish. I used masking tape.

 

Here is the misalignment problem that I ran into.

 

Here is the twist that I put in the reproduction Zbar.

 

Thanks Mike for sharing.:gp:

 

Pretty massive modification to something that is so costly.

 

Be careful with this modification, as the zbar arm that I modified failed after 500 miles. The lesson that I'm taking away from all of this is to use only the parts supplied by the vendor, GS Enterprises in this example. In addition to modifying the zbar, I was also using a home made zbar-to-clutch-fork linkage rod (as described here on this board). GS Enterprises felt that (1) there is no need to modify the zbar as it is modeled after a NOS unit, and (2) use the zbar-to-clutch-fork linkage rod that they supply.

The specifications for the clutch that I was using (release pressure and installed height) are identical to the clutch recommended by GS Enterprises, i.e. all stock replacement pieces.

 

Mike, were you able to secure the bar in the vise in such a way as the twisting wasn't being translated to the weld? If not, that's a heckuva strain for the weld to endure.

Devon

 

I placed the body of the zbar in the vice, and was able to twist the lower part of the arm with a crescent wrench. It did not take much force to twist it this way.

The arm finally bent in service where the manufacturer left an abrupt transition while cutting out the arm. I'm guessing that the arm was cut out partially, then reoriented and cut out the rest of the way. This resulted in a slight mismatch where the one cut ended and the other began. Smoothing this point may have allowed the stress to be taken up by the entire arm. Not smoothing it focused the stress at this single point, which is where the arm bent.

The weld didn't fail.