My G body frame notch

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by R4E5G5L, May 30, 2011.

  1. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Cut the frame today.

    No turning back now.

    Biggest thing I learned on day one is, no way am I gonna reuse the cut out piece to box the frame. I've been researching this project for a long time and found those that do reuse it and those that say no way. After cutting that out and feeling/flexing it in my own two hands- no way.

    I also found out that where the trunk floor meets the inner fender well is shot, barely a crack in the coating till I started massaging that inner lip. No rust above the weld just the flange that hangs below the intersection of the two pieces.

    I'm only running 275/60 15 M/T et streets but I want to keep my old Cragar super lite II wheels. After much reading on a GN site I found someone running my exact wheels (15x8 with 4.5 bs) and tires that had to run a 5/16" spacer. Well, I'm anti spacer and pro tucked under look so this was my only option.

    I probably should have done the notch before having the rear end rebuilt, I would have had them take a little off the width.

    Will try to keep progress/updates going but as soon as the ground dries out I'll be at work day and night.
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2011
  2. monkeyy337

    monkeyy337 monkeyy337

    My Regal frame has been narrowed and notched by the first guy I sold it to (I have sold it twice) but I don't know if he used the part he cut out to put it back together. I did watch my buddy narrow his Regal frame and he used the cut out part to put it back together with no problems, the car runs 10.70's and has a ton of passes on it. Both our Regals will accept a 315-60-15 drag radial tire now.
  3. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Is your friends car caged? Good to hear you guys don't have problems, I guess I'd rather be safe, especially without a cage.

  4. monkeyy337

    monkeyy337 monkeyy337

    Both are cars have 6 point roll bars.
  5. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    So I did a little grinding tonight to prepare to make a cardboard template for a new plate. When I cut the top of the frame I didn't cut back quite far enough to get past the weld 100%. I need to grind it back a bit so that I don't have an extra strip of steel between my new plate and the top.

    Looks like we'll finaly get to start planting in a couple days so no progress for a couple weeks.
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2011
  6. Heavy D

    Heavy D Well-Known Member

    Steve make sure you do some bracing between the rails as well. The stress points where the control arms mount is important. I also ran a tube across behind/above the rearend housing that went all the way thru to the outside of the rail and welded it inside and outside. Similar to what you woud find on a late model pickup truck. Good luck! Happy planting, most of the guys are done around here.
  7. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Hey Dennis, will do on the bracing and I'll need the luck!
    As for planting, most guys around here finaly started today, we start tomorrow, if it doesn't rain tonight.
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2011
  8. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Got rained out last night so I got to work on the Bu some more.

    Finished grinding, got the template made. I think I'll have a fab shop cut the new pieces for me. We have a plasma cutter but not a steady hand.

    Last edited: Jul 16, 2011

    STAGE-2 TORQUE STAGE-1 Buick "494Stroker" in 2021

  10. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Rained out - again. Got the pieces from the fab shop yesterday, I could have/should've done them myself. Nothing wrong just nothing to be impressed about.

    Left side is done, right side welded in and ground. I need to touch up some spots with the welder and do the 'end caps'

    Biggest lesson today was where you want the top and bottom to meet the new piece. I thought I wanted them flush and then grind a taper on the 1/4". That works ok but my best welds were where the original was ground back too far leaving about 1/8" of the new piece exposed.

    I have pictures of all of this, I'll get them transfered to my PC and post them soon.

    STAGE-2 TORQUE STAGE-1 Buick "494Stroker" in 2021

  12. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    I realy should get those pictures up here.

    Thought of something else, fuel lines are real close to the front of the notch, make sure you have some asbestos board or stainless or something to protect those lines. I used a 2x6 to relocate the lines inward a bit and kinked the feed line, on my to do list this weekend that's what made me think of it.
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2011
  13. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Now with pics! Post 1 pics show rust below weld and tire rub from 255 60 15 radial TA s on a 15x8 4.5 bs, not bad considering how many miles and the type of driving. But proves the notch was a must to keep the wheels and run the new tires.
    Still need to brace the rails at the spring pockets as I promised, I swear, no track time till I do.

  14. Running

    Running Midwest Buick Mafia

    Hey neighbor. When your done come up here and fix mine up will ya :)
  15. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Yea! Grand Rapids is only three hours, we could meet half way and do that in the Walmart parking lot!

    All done except the brace. Shot some launch video yesterday just need to upload to you tube.
  16. regal81455

    regal81455 Well-Known Member

    Looking forward to that video son!! :3gears:
  17. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Ask and you shall receive.

    Don't expect too much. 13" stock converter. Tires still spin in first even at 22psi BUT it pulls hard while spinning.

    Before the MT tires the car WOULD NOT PITCH AT ALL. And I'd have to pedal it for 3 or 4 seconds to stay under 6krpm.

    I painted stripes on the tires last night, will shoot a closer vid to see just how much spin I'm getting. Will drop psi based on what that vid shows.


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