1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

My clutch rod adjuster

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by woody1640, Mar 31, 2016.

  1. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    Well after close to 2 months of messing around getting the T5 tranny fit in, the cross member redone and hunting down correct pins (linkage rod from pedal to z bar) and a special pair of frame bolts (holds the bracket for the z bar end), then I got the fun of building an adjuster rod.

    I used a clutch fork from a corvette (63-81), which had 3/8" holes already in it (which is the same size the rod spherical end has). I dropped a 3/8" grade 8 bolt through the clutch fork end vertically, slid the rod spherical end up on it, threaded a castle nut up snug and drilled a 1/8" hole and inserted a cotter pin. I drilled out the 3/8" x 24 threads that were in the rod spherical end so I could slide a 3/8" heat treated rod into the end, measured out the length that I needed the adjuster rod to be, cut it to length and cut 2" of threads on it (man was that fun, took me 1 1/2 hours).

    Well heres a few pics of what I came up with that I think will work (clutch pedal goes up n down ... lol), seems like its working on 1st test anyway.
    Take a look and give me some feed back on what you think. Yay or nay or maybe or what?


    Keith clutch adjuster & tranny mount & crossmember 003.JPG clutch adjuster & tranny mount & crossmember 002.JPG clutch adjuster & tranny mount & crossmember 001.JPG
     
  2. fowler

    fowler Well-Known Member

    Looks great!
     
  3. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Good work, although I would of rather see the adjuster rod at less of an angle to the fork and hitting it on center than from underneath. Id be concerned that the fork wasn't putting even pressure on the bearing. You might break an ear off the fork that way too

    Did you give any thought to fitting the rod end in the center of the fork rather than underneath?
     
  4. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    Jason: Yes the angle is a big concern to me too. My plan was when I bought the clutch fork was to fit the rod end in the center of the clutch fork, but the angle is to much and won't work that way.

    I have the same concern about breaking an ear off the fork.

    My partner (a certified a.s.c.e. master auto tech with 30 years experience) has looked at this and said he has no doubt it will work, i'm a bit skeptical.

    The thought of drilling a new hole in the equalizer (z-bar) closer up to the center pipe has even come to mind, whats your thoughts on that?


    Keith
     
  5. schlepcar

    schlepcar Gold Level Contributor

    Looks like the adjusting rod geometry actually gets straighter as the pedal is depressed. I would think it should be fine,maybe even a little overkill on the spherical rod end. I wouldn't do any fixing if it isn't broke.
     
  6. agetnt9

    agetnt9 Agetnt9 (Dan)

    It looks like when U push on the pedal it will try to twist the fork,,, If i were U i would drill another hole in the arm 1 inch up and take a die grinder to that fork so that the hiem joint goes in the center of the fork.
    The thing is will the pedal be to hard to push and not disengage the clutch all the way...
     

Share This Page