I owne a '70 skylark 350 no mods other than flowmasters. My car wasn't running quite up to par so I figured I should change the spark plugs and wires. There's no way that I could have mixed any wires up....but now my car is missing so bad I don't even want to drive it.....what did I do and how do I fix this??? Thanks Ben
explain to me what "welled ignition points" means. as you can tell this was the first time I tried to do anything myself...I'm pissed off because I can't blame it on anyone but meou: but anyway...I gapped the plugs according to my owners manuel...if that's what you're talking about. Ben
Dwelling is usually done with a dwell meter it is hooked up the same way as you would test for RPM one connected to the negative side of the coil the other to a good ground. The dwell meter should read in the area of approximatly 30 on the dwell meter. It was explained to me forevery three points of dwell in is one degree of ignition timing "don't quote me on the spacifics but it does affect the timing to a degree. maybe someone will pop in and give it to you correct anyhow with that being said. you can adjust the dwell by using a dwell meter and an allen wrench. use the allen wrench on the ignition points to adjust the dwell hope that is pretty straight foward.
that's interesting.... it does have the original ignition right? If it has been upgraded to HEI ignition, and you put plugs/wires for original setup, it will run weird. Were the new wires smaller than the original? if tey were the same size then that's probally not the prob. Sometimes plug wires are bad out of the box. I have had one that came with no metal connector inside the boot. Heres one this to do- while the car is running, be very carefull cause 30,000 volts doesn't tickle, unplug and plug back in the wires one by one, if you unplug a wire and it make no difference in how the car is idleing, then you've got a problem with that wire/sparkplug. hope I made that make sense... "Dwell" setting is the amount of degrees the points stay closed for. To set this you need a dwell meter, and then you adjust a screw on the distributor. There is a little door and there is a allen screw inside. DO NOT touch it if you do not have a dwell meter. It can't be set "by ear". You can adjust it either way and it might not effect power noticably, but it will eat up the points real quick. I'd recommend replacing the cap/rotor and points. And also check the ignition timing. if you have any more questions just ask, we've all been in your position before we learned... -Nick
yeah...everything is original.... I bought the car from an old lady for $800 bucks with 38,000 original mile on it!! So I'm sure she didn't give the car any up grades. the wires are bigger than the ones that I took off though....could that be it? because it wasn't running all that bad before I came up with this ingenious idea to change my owne spark plugs...and that's all I did...bought some new plugs and wires gapped the plugs to .030 and changed each one out at a time did I forget a step? I sure appreciate you guys' help...it's my only means of transportation and I can't be stuck in the barracks all weekend. that was a good idea Nick I'm thinking it has to be the wires because those and the plugs were the only things I fooled with.
$800 bucks with 38k on 'er? Great Find!! Since you got off cheap buying the car, take another couple hundred and buy some required equipment. :grin: Timing Light (Inductive is best, Inductive with Dialback Option is even better), Engine Analyzer, has knobs and reads dwell, rpm, volts, etc.. Cuz it's a 350, might wanna get a distrib hold-down wrench as trying to get a boxed wrench down there's a pain in the :moonu:, Vacuum Gauge and a Compression Tester (optional as it's used maybe 5 times it's whole life.. lol) A feeler gauge is also a worthwhile $5 as is a small metal measuring rod/stick (it's flat with a pen clip on it). Timing light, Engine Analyzer, Vac Gauge & Comp Gauge I purchased at Sears, everything else is a AutoZone, PepBoys, etc. item. Next up, since you have new plugs and wires, get a Cap & Rotor kit as well as a new contact point set (points and consender mounted on one plate). AutoZone sells a nice solid red cap and rotor kit for around $15 with brass inserts (plus it matches the engine :Brow: ) Before going hog wild with everything, take a look at the fireing order that's cast on the manifold, make sure the wires go in that order on the distrib cap, with #1 being the tower to the immediate right of the metal window (looking from center of cap). If everythings in order, and yer brave enough, try what Nick suggested about pulling a wire to check for engine miss. If your car has A/C, make 'sure' the wire boot is fully seated on all the right side plugs (even side) as they can be a pain to change.. Last up, I'd get a Chassis Manual for your car.. Ask in the Parts Wanted forum and look through eBay for it.. '70 Buick Chassis Manual.. You'll pay for one in nice shape, but you'll find yourself digging thru it more then you care to think at times. For the total package, also find a '70 Fisher Body Manual. It details most everything the chassis manual doesn't. After you've gotten the new cap, rotor and point set, use a feeler gauge (see, $5 and it's already being used) and set the gap on the points with a gauge of .015 to .020 to get the car started, then use the dwell setting on the meter and an allen wrench to set it to spec of 30degress +/- 2*. Once thats done, engine started, dwell set, check your timming.. 10* on the timing tab is good.. Reset the idle speed if required and yer off! Cheers!
There is one more thing Ben. When you get into the little door on the distributor cap with the allen wrench? You are very close to the fan blade and if you arent careful you get your knuckles cut up by the blade!! If you arent mechanically inclined take it to a shop!
a vacuum pump/gauge is one of the best investments I've made. Autozone sell em for around $20. I've found many many vacuum leaks, leaking diapragms, and such with it.
I finally got it today...there was a hairline crack in my ditributor cap from #1 to #8. And I found this out because when I pulled the number one plug...it started to smooth out...but obviously still missing..so I put a new cap on it and my baby's feeling much better....and so am I!! Thanks for all the help fellas!! BEN
Can you post a pic of your car? I'd love to see an original low mile 350 skylark, You dont see a whole lot of em anymore, it would be nice to see a survivor Bet its a neat car:beer Mark
I just love a happy ending. What a jewel!! Anybody want to bet we're talking about the ORIGINAL cap here?:eek2:
