Well i finally called summit and ordered the pistons, they worked their magic and got me 8 matching 3.0v6 pistons for a total of $245.91. They said 4-6 days then ill have these pistons put on the rods and then install them myself.. As long as i put the same rod in the same place/position its in now i should be good to go right? after that ill make all my compression measurements again and just mill the heads to get my 10.5 - 1 instead of the block.
when you get the pistons measure valve clearance with your cam installed before milling just incase you need to adjust your milling numbers.
I agree... mock up the engine with the camshaft and timing chain, add Plasticine to the tops of the 4 corner pistons, put on the head gasket, heads, lifters pushrods all in. Turn the engine over a few times and then remove the heads and measure how thick the plasticine is (cut it and then use feeler gauges to measure depth). This will tell you if you have enough clearance to mill the heads or not. Good idea to have 40 thou clearance or more... You can grind valve reliefs into the pistons if you need to, just do not cut too deep.
I would suggest you prime oil pump and lifters before this also just so lifter is at full height and valve timing wont be off as that will make a difference in valve clearance,so if your gonna degree or advance cam timing now is the time
I think if the pistons are going to sit .055 in the hole and with the .040 gasket, that's .095 clearance it should be plenty as long as the heads aren't milled too much. But as flat tops, you probably won't have to mill much if any. ---------- Post added at 11:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:31 PM ---------- Milling either one will cause the same effect. Put the pistons in and measure the deck height to see where you are, we can calculate things from there.
Yeah i will mock everything up, are these pistons taller then a stock set of pistons? im worried that the pistons will be to close the the deck and my compression will be to much.. On a side note the rear gears is here's! From the one and only Monzaz a set for 3.42. Im trying to pick up on any deals i can find while im still figuring out the engine build as long as my wallet permits and this was one deal i didn't want to pass.
I do not think you will have any valve to piston clearance issues but it is still good to check. The 3.0 flat tops have a lower compression height making them sit further in the hole however not having a giant dish makes the compression about 9.5:1 or a bit higher without any milling of the block or heads.
whats the difference between compression height and compression distance? Summit shows the 3.0 pistons have a compression distance of 1.808 in and ive found that the stock pistons have a compression height of 1.8100 right?
Same thing,just written different when you're talking pistons. The stock pistons may just of rounded the number up.
so at the most the new pistons would sit .003 deeper making them .093? I know theres no way to know for sure but im just trying to get an idea what i can do. at .093 in the hole a .04 gasket i need to get the heads to 51cc and that will put me at right around 10.5:1 and ill be set for the TA_290 cam right?
I believe a true 10 to 1 will get u good performance for that setup after tuning are you getting big valves?I believe your gonna need the extra flow. I have been reading the stroker threads and see many guys are getting 400 plus HP with much lower compression ratio . seen the lab top dyno for the Schneider cam and that's got a nice torque line
Well the pistons are here! Now i have to take the old ones out and take both sets (after marking the order they are in!!) to have the rods swapped over and then ill install them myself. Then the block will sit for a little while while the heads get worked over. Any tips when re-installing the new pistons? Im guessing the little "f" on the side of the pistons is supposed to be towards the front?
don't use a metal hammer on anything, get rubber 3/8 hose to cover rod bolts as you move pistons in or out of block so not to score crank get feeler gauges to put inbetween rods to square them as you torque rod bolts. so you will need torque wrench(rent from autozone if you don't have) so get proper specs for tightening caps go on one way suggest you mark caps and try to put rod bolts and nuts back in same spot you will also need a ring compressor. I suggest a ring expander so you don't break and rings either getting them off or on piston
Ok, im gonna take the old rods and pistons over to the shop with the rings on them and have them swap it over. I just put the biggest sized feeler gauge that will fit right in between the two rods right??
Ok,the only reason you need to put a feeler gage in between the 2 rods on 1 rod crank journal is to check the side clearance. Side clearance should be no less than .015",more won't hurt any thing,but less might if and when you spin it more than 6,000 rpm. With .0015" of rod bearing clearance,the rod isn't going to be able to twist far enough to distort it. On the other hand,if the rod is torqued not on a rod journal,its a good idea to use a rod vise to loosen the bolts,clamping on the big end to hold it so it won't distort. Or an numatic impact gun will work if you don't have a rod vise,because you'll be able to hold the rod in your hand to loosen it(holding it in your hand isn't strong enough to twist a rod,unless your from Krypton,LOL). Derek
Why would the rod bolts be tourqued down if the werent on the journals? Ive seen in videos where they put feeler gauges in between the two rods that are side by side, so they dont rub against eachother. It makes the rotating assembly easier to turn so it frees up some horsepower..
If you have ever bought new rods,you would know that they are torqued from were they were made,and need to be loosened to assemble the build. And if you bring a set of rods to a machine shop to be re-sized,they have to be torqued for the machinist to resize them,and they may or may not loosen the bolts when they give them back.ou: Feeler gauge is used to "feel" the clearance in between the 2 rods(thats why they have numbers on them).Putting feeler gauge in between the 2 rods to check clearance,won't ensure they don't "rub against each other",when the engine is running,the rods are going to move where they want to(the oil will make sure they don't rub against each other,if the proper side clearance is in between the 2 rods)If you leave feeler gauge in the engine when you run it,you're asking for trouble!:eek2: Derek
