Motor Oil?

I don't want to create a monster topic here but can anyone tell me what type of motor oil to use in an older Buick engine. I've read different articles regarding the reduction of ZDDP in newer oils and the motor oils that have the higher ZDDP seem to be synthetic. So my question is what kind of off the shelf motor oil can I run in an older high mileage engine without self destructing it? The car is an occasional driver.

Thanks.

 

Be prepared for 99 answers. All different too. :grin:

I don't think there really is one right oil. I was going to use Brad Penn oil till I read somewhere that the zinc content is nowhere near what it used to be. I know you can buy zddp through the GS club or at least they advertise it in the GSXtra, not sure who the vendor is.

I put synthetic in before I put the car away this year, but I'd like to add a zinc additive. The Rotella diesel oil that lot of guys use supposedly foams up too much under higher rpm's I read.

Your head will spin before this thread is over.

 

I also read that synthetic will ruin the seals on an engine? If I have to rephrase the question, if one were to go into an autoparts store and buy some motor oil off the shelf what would it be? What kind? This is not a racing engine either. Just a driver.

 

I look at it this way, if synthetic oil is ruining that many seals on engines why is every company making a synthetic oil now? Plus tons of guys here use synthetic too.

 

The way I see it you have three options, any of which are "Jim Dandy".

1. Rottella oil for diesel engines as previously stated which has the higher ZDDP and gets around the API regulation.

2. Pick your oil of preference and add the ZDDP additive at every oil change.

3. Choose a "racing" oil that does not have the API rating that has the ZDDP in the higher range (such as Brad Penn).​

The use of synthetic oils will have no negative effect on any of your seals: cork, neoprene, urethane, viton or the like. There may be a few rare exceptions in some of the more exotic synthetics, but stick with the main brands if you go that route such as Mobil 1.

Erik

 

Erik,

Check my post about number's 1 and 3. What do you think? o No:

Supposedly the Rotella foams too much and there's a bunch of posts here somewhere about the Brad Penn oil not having as much ZDDP as it used to.

 

Yup... I can't argue with what you have mentioned, but M1687 said this is for a driver and wont be revving so if that is indeed true about Rotella (which I cannot attest to) it shouldn't be an issue. As far as the Brad Penn oil, this is the route I have chosen and am using. I'd be interested if there is any truth to that claim about the reduction of ZDDP in that oil. I have it on numerous professional engine builders, and racers (winners!) that won't use anything else. Until I have hard evidence otherwise I am sticking with Brad Penn.

So now that you have mine, you only have 98 more opinions to go...

Erik

 

Don't prepare for just 99 answers, as there are probably 9999 answers if one wishes to use the search function here.

(1) make a ton of popcorn

(2) use search terms like "zinc" or "rotella" or "synthetic".

Devon

 

i use amsoil in my truck.
i use carquest 10-30 in the racecar. (good for 10k rpm. lol)

 

I have a case of brad penn left then im switching to amsoil dominator series as i'm a dealer so i get it at cost

amsoil premium has enough zinc/phosphurous for a nice mild/moderate engine

amsoil premiumhas 1266 1379
dominator series has 1424 phosphurous 1575 zinc

 

I've been using Mobil 1 for as long as I can remember and have had no problems with anything. My `96 GMC has 226,000 miles on it now and always stays full between changes. I recently towed a loaded car trailer 2,700 miles round trip with it and I only had to add 4oz. when I got home. I'm sold on it and I use it in everything. I also use synthetic transmission fluid and gear lube. Just my opinion. Only 98 more to go :grin:

 

Can I use a diesel oil like Rotella to break in my engine?

Many cam manufacturers have recommended Rotella T in the past for cam break in. Remember, this was the CI-4 Rotella T some manufacturers were recommending, not the new CJ-4 Rotella. Be advised that we do not recommend the continued use of the new CJ-4 Rotella T for cam break-in or any other CJ-4 oil for this purpose. Additionally in support of this position, magazines such as Fleet Equipment, in one such article "Focusing on Oil," stated that CJ-4 oils should only be used in 2007 and later diesel engines and that earlier diesel or mixed fleet engines should remain on CI-4 oils.

Has Brad Penn or Swepco changed their ZDDP levels?

No. We get this asked of us all the time. Both oils have more than enough Zn and P and have not changed in years. Continuted teardowns and used oil analysis by our customers ensures these oils are still performing as well as they have previously

 

I'm not all that up to date about synthetics - but in the older days:

If your car is Blue - Use Pennzoil

If your car is Red - Use Mobil

If your car is almost any other color -Use Chevron

If your car is in primer - Uhhh - Aw Shucks
- use whatever you want !

I would think tranny fluid ought to get a runby here as well - IMHO

Happy New Year We have 30 inches of light, fluffy snow on top of my Buick in the driveway (Pix on the way) and on the houses and on the lawns - but the roads are remarkably CLEAR. The pine trees are all "listing" about 45 degrees. However, I used the Expedition's AWD all day.

Switched my insurance to Haggerty - dropped
the premium from $326(6 mos) to $150(YEAR).
Let's see - saved $500 -the wife spent it at the Mall, and again at the beauty shop. . . While I was spending the savings at Home Depot.

Rip Rohring; Poor Ripper's Almanac

 

X2
My machinist builds a lot of 40 grand+ race engines, every single one of them are broke in with Brad Penn 30, then run on Brad Penn 20-50.
I run Brad Penn in both of my Buicks.

 

Larry, where can I get ZDDPlus? I'll just add it to my new Sysnthetic in the Spring.

 

I use mobil 1 alone and man I love it...
I was always sceptical because every body makes products and claimes them to be the best in the world, but very few ever come close. o No:
If you are using conventional now you will feel alot of a diff the first change. by the second synthetic change you will be ready to go.:TU:

 

I run Mobil 1 with ZDDPlus. Mobil dropped their zinc content as well and I lost my first cam lobe in late '08, so I figured it was time to boost it a bit.

Devon

 

I've been using Mobil 1 5w30 for about 20 years. I cant say I remember noticing any big change in anything, either performance or economy. But everything I ever used it in ran fine, and ran for a long time. My daily driver is a '94 Mazda that goes 60 miles a day round trip. (Just changed the oil last night as a matter of fact). Going strong at nearly 150K, and I still get over 27mpg, and I do drive it hard. I'm sure dino oil would degrade sooner and not protect as well. I never experience leaks due to bad seals. It always comes from inadequately tightened filter or oilpan drainplug. I wouldnt hesitate a minute spending more for synthetic, regardless of how new or old the engine was. But, as has already been mentioned, it is slipperier, so if the seals are suspect, it may show leaks where dino oil didnt come out.