They are saying in very poor wording: Tap into power before the resistor, or bypassing it. Just make sure you have the 12V going to the pertronix
Just to confirm, your swapped the plugs around and still had "a miss". Are you sure it wasn't missing on #3 after that swap? When you say "a miss" do you mean that the plug isn't firing at all, or that it fires intermittently? Just trying to understand...
David, It is intermittent. Sean, It is now getting 12 volts. (talked to petronix tech guy. Ignitor 2 can run on 8 - 16 volts with no issues) I had the ignitor 1 and purchased an ignitor 2 on Thursday. I have not had time to check all wires. Seems ok but I had the problem move to the other bank, can't remeber which one, I think I may re install all of my old wires to see if that changes anything. It is running like piece of crap. Idle at 1000 rpm. Put it into gear and it stalls. Also moved piston to TDC. Timing mark is at 0*. So no slippage of outer ring of Harmonic balancer. Hand over carb caused it to stall. Sprayed down all wires with water. No sparking.
Regardless of the #1 plug not firing....it should still run in gear as 1 cylinder id NOT going to stall the thing.......I still believe you have other issues with fuel.
Tend to agree with you. Just need to figure out what. Will go over linkage set up this week and will replace gas filter.
What is your inital timing set at? Try advancing or retarding timing and see if that changes how it runs.
go to somewhere open and before you put it in gear rev the engine and hold brakes maybe 1500 and put it in d and after it kicks give it more gas wonder if torque converter is stalling the engine . how Ouch vacuum is the engine pulling?
Wish I had seen that before I went for a spin. However this the same TC I have always run in the past. Seems to run fine at high speeds, thou not performing as I expected. At idle blah! Same thing, rough and wants to stall. And it seems to want to overheat once I start the difficult fore and back in order to slide this car into my tight urban garage.Pressure also building in carb (have gauge, normal pressure at 3.5-4 psi, will get to over 6.5 sitting with engine off) leave it parked for 10 minutes and it is flooded when I have to start. However, that could be my carb perking. Rubber line running close to engine. Still have this rough idle. Only way to drive it is to set idle at 950-1000 rpm, with brake on at 800-850 RPM it's ok. Lower than that and it stalls. I will try to post a video on you tube. Also, it's not smokin and plug tips look good.
If your saying that it needs to idle at 850 in gear ?? Thats really about what you would expect from a cam with that duration. Any lower and it's not gonna be happy, still think you have some tuning issues though.
I can turn the drivers side air/fuel screw all the way in and only saw a 2 in hg drop in vacuum. Best I can get is 14. It bounces slightly, 1.5 deviation, as I start to increase the RPM the vacuum will increase to 20 then go down again beyond a certain RPM. Made a video. Will post tomorrow.Hey maybe there is nothing wrong and it is supposed to run like this...This is my 1st experience with a more aggressive cam.
What make of carb are you running and have you rebuilt it? Is there any black smoke at idle? You may have to go with a higher stall converter or lower gears with that cam to get the off line performance you want.
No black smoke at idle. TC Stall is identified in signature. I keep getting the sense that it is not running on the idle circuit. See you tube video. Quality is not that great but maybe you can pickup a clue or see something I missed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ff0PjbQ7oU
Car sounds great. I think is just a hot cam that wants to idle above 800. I don't think you have a miss, just the lope of the cam, and maybe a carb not set up to idle with such low vacuum that cam produces at idle.
I saw that the TC stall was 2500, but you may have to go higher to compansate for the loss of low end torque caused by that cam. Engine sounds great IMHO. I agree with Chuck, get the carb adjusted properly first. The slightly irregular timing light pulse may be caused by the fluctuating idle speed due to the lopy cam.
doesnt sound like a miss to me....the others are right, you are gonna have to get used to a higher idle. What carb do you have on there ? You could actually prob use more fuel to get it to respond a little quicker, try setting the idle in gear at about 900 and see how it responds
500 cfm edlebrock with electric choke and 5 hg springs. Am at 1000 rpm for idle in drive about 850. Have a 600 cfm on the bench but no electric choke. I was thinking of swapping out the venturies and making other necessary mods, jets, metering rods and nozzles to my 500 cfm. Body of carb is identical. I wanted a cam that would pull nicely from 1500 - 5500 RPM. Not impressed with the performance of the engine...and gas consumption is up big time (I am ok with that if the engine is puuting a big sile on my face). Wanted bottom end response not top end. Will work for the summer, will tweak a bit and reconsider when the snow starts flying. So looks like I was chasing ghosts. Thanks for your patience and support.
If you have to turn the idle mixture screw in that far, then something isn't right with the carb. Take the top off, clean the jets and fuel ways and check the float settings on that carb. I will bet that at least one of them is off. I also have an Edelbrock. You can do the whole thing with the carb on the car. My floats were wrong right out of the box. Taking the time to set them properly made a big difference on mine. How does it run on the street? Has it got some balls, or is it faltering? IMHO, these 300's don't make a lot of power. If you are getting 260hp with your set-up, you're doing really well, I think.... Love that cam- wish mine sounded like that!:TU:
I do not know if you can do this to the Edelbrock or not but on the Holley you can open up the secondary throttle blades some then you can close the primary throttle blades some which then will give you some more adjustment with the idle screws. If the throttle blades are opened up too far on the primaries too much the transfer slot is exposed on the blades and the main system starts to take over on the idle. This keeps you from adjusting the idle jet screws on the carb. That is why I like to use the Holley with a cam in the car you get more tunability with the carb. I use a dbl pump with a 4 corner idle screw and it is very touchy on setting this. The best way to adjust is use a vacuum gauge and tach hooked up to the engine so you can watch both the vac gauge and the tach to see the changes quickly with the idle jets. Do with car in gear and the wheels blocked and emergency brake on. You want the adjustment so when you turn the screws in 1/8- 1/4 in the idle starts to slow down some then open it back up to the 1/8- 1/4 adjustment then you have it. You have to wait 30 seconds after each adjustment to let the engine settle down some. The cam makes the adjustment very touchy. I think each one of my jet screws are only opened up 1 and 1/4 turns total. Does not sound like you have a miss to me. If it is not missing on the floor it is ok. If you are getting a slight stumble when touching the gas on take off go up on the squirter size some to give a little more gas on take off. The car sounds great. With a spacer plate you need a little bit more pump shot to make up for the extra space with the spacer on there. You have to make up for the extra hole that is now there and plus the carb is farther away from the intake. Mine idles at 850 in park and about 700-750 in drive my cam is a 230-245@ 50 dur and 500 lift. 1000 in park is up too high that is why you can't get the idle jets right. Keep the vac advance off the dist when making adjustments so this does not affect the engine timing.
