Master cyl question

So i bought this master cyl and it came with no instructions. The installation should be bleed and bolt it up however im a little confused on these extra parts. Any one habe any clue the ones should be plugs for bench bleeding the plunger and the brass thing i have no clue on

 

The 2 on the right look like block-off pluge, the black rubber thing is a bot that goes over the rear to keep dirt out. The thing at the top with the point could be an extender to put in the back of the plunger in case the brake rod isn't long enough. Pretty sure ablut 3 of 4.

 

Sweet thank u

 

"Bench bleeding" basically means setting the master cylinder, level, in a vise, and routing line(s) from the master cylinder output(s) to the reservoir (with the top cover removed) so that you are "bleeding" the fluid and any air, from the piston/bore back into the fluid reservoir and after several strokes you should see no bubbles, and only fluid returning to the reservoir.

Determine if you need the "brass" extension behind the MC piston and the booster (Power brakes ) install and set .020 clearance.

If the vendor supplied the MC with "bleed lines".
Set the MC in a vise.
Remove the cover.
Install the line(s) from the bottom output ports and route them to the master
cylinder to "dump" back into the reservoir(s).
Fill the reservoir(s) with brake fluid.
Slowly stroke the Master Cylinder piston from the rear of the housing until the fluid is "bubble free".
Carefully remove each line and plug the "output" port(s).
Put the cap/cover on.
Remove from the vice, install on booster (if applicable) install supply line(s) to the metering block or proportioning block as required.

Follow correct bleeding of the system.
(If you need more info, post what you need clarified)

It's not complicated, just complex.

(Not hard, just have to follow the correct procedures in order)

 

Make sure to push the piston all the way in when bench bleeding... Also I like to make sure the hoses are submerged the fluid, so they cannot suck air back in.