Looking for some recommendations to go either lowering springs or spindles?? I have a 72 skylark with front tubular control arms, stock 350 AC springs. Car has been converted to a BBB. I would like to drop the front end about 2" Thanks for any input here
personally, I would replace the spindles which would not change the alignment. new springs would require an alignment because u would be changing the geometry. However, if u do not change the rear springs to lower the rear the same as your front, u may require an alignment.
Thanks Gerry, car needs an alignment any ways. But im with you. I think the best option is to do the spindles first then go from there
A set of drop spindles sounds like the best option. It changes the least. However, with tubular arms, did you use tall ball joints? Tall uppers improve camber gain and tall lower a bit more AND drop the car about 1/2" as well.
ProForged makes the best ball joints for a stock replacement ball joint. They come in .5 and .9 taller uppers and .5 longer lowers. Tallest uppers: https://www.amazon.com/Proforged-10...98------------&vehicleName=1971+Buick+Skylark Tall lowers: https://www.amazon.com/Proforged-10...98------------&vehicleName=1971+Buick+Skylark For drop spindles, I've not used any as I like my headers as they are.
Greg, would you use both upper and lower, for the best camber geometry, or is it only necessary to use one or the other?
I have only used the shorter 0.5" longer upper ones as those were the ones available when I bought them. If I were doing it again, I'd use the 0.9" uppers for improved camber gain. As I mentioned earlier, I have MT repro headers which are pretty low and I have not used the lowers. If you are lowering your car and the clearance isn't an issue, the additional length of the spindle by the longer lower ball joint I would do that as well. Using both would make the spindle 1.4" longer than stock and correct a lot of the improper geometry built into those cars. Add the additional positive caster allowed with tubular upper arms and a touch of negative camber and these old cars can really stick to the curves.
Back in the day, I used the HO Enterprises kit with special ball joints, and tie rod ends to use the taller 70-78 Firebird spindle in my 72 Skylark. The transformation to the cars handling was amazing. So much so, that I needed to remove the rear sway bar. The front tires stuck so well that you could too easily bring the rear around with minimal throttle.
Right on guys Thanks so much for the info guys. all I need to figure out is the spindles now Thanks again
Yep, Greg is the man when it comes to the front end of our cars. I've picked his brain a few time about lowering my front end.
