How many of you have experience with the low collant light being on constantly on a C4 Corvette. This week I have done a coolant flust and changed the thermostat. It had a 160 degree stat in it from a first generation Hypertech chip that was installed years ago by a Chevrolet dealership specializing in Corvettes. I have put a new 195 degree stat in it; changed the radiator cap and that is after almost 35 gallons of water and coolant flush being run through the cooling system. The light is still on at anything more than idle engine speed. In the past I've had other "corvette specialty shops" do the majority of work on the car because I simply hated working on the car after my first experience with changing the starter. Could it be a plugged radiator or a clogged water pump? I did notice a large amount of rust and scale in the intake and water outlet neck when I changed the thermostat. Maybe I should put a 350 Buick in it and that will fix it? Any thought would be appreciated. Thanks!
The first thing I would try is to pull the low coolant sensor out and make sure the end of it is clean. If it is crusty it could give an inaccurate reading. Bill
This would occasionly happen in my wife's 2001 Olds. I believe all it means is that your plastic overflow tank is low or the sensor is bad. Don't think it has anything to do with overheating or the main cooling system.o No:
unless the 'vette is noticably loosing coolant, it's more than likely the sensor is buggered up & needs replaced. that seems to be a common problem on later model GM cars, a friends '01 monte carlo had the same issue, which was the sensor.
Sounds like there is air in the cooling system. Those LT 1's can be difficult to fill. When you increase RPM the water pump will pull coolant from the reservoir causing the sensor to be uncovered and the light to come on. With the engine cold, remove the cap, start it and allow to warm up. If the coolant level rises quickly there is probably air in the system. Also, if the cooling system is full of rusty looking coolant don't be surprised if the water pump or radiator fails, or possibly head gaskets.
GM sensor crap. Good luck finding one that will work for more than 6 months. I'm on my 3rd. Just got used to the light and check fluid level every weeK.:rant:
is the sensor in the surge tank or the radiator? the ones in the surge tank usually go out if you give it a couple light love taps with a small hammer.this works with the ones in the gm 4 cyl/v6 cars.they get a small air bubble there.
So here's the latest. I did a complete cooling system flush. It took almost half a Saturday of time and about 30 gallons of water to get all the "nasty coolant" out of the car. I changed the thermostat and gasket just before refilling the system very carefully. I took out the 160 degree unit and installed a 195 unit as well as a new gasket(I should note that the factory service manual refers to using silicone as the method to seal the housing instead of the gasket that is listed in the catalog by the GM part department) I also put a new radiator cap on and it seems to be much improved. The car is now much happier in normal daily driving, the coolant light has only come on two times in about 400 miles and I now have a heater that works to actually keep me warm- WOW! I have checked the coolant level a few times and made sure it is full in the radiator. I have noticed however that the system is not or can not use the overflow bottle for some reason. I wonder it that indicates that the system isn't really totally full yet? Comments? TBW, I did but a new sensor but haven't installed it yet.
Dude, I dont think that should come on up in Denver. EVen at idle, it shouldn't come on. I think that if it was low it is made to pull suction and get tha fluid out of the overflow. Check for obvious leaks. Someone elso will chime in that has more of a checklist in mind. :TU:
Unlike our beloved '60s and early-70s cars, todays cars use a "closed" coolant system. The old "open" systems were designed to run with some air in the radiator (don't fill it all the way), and the cap would only release coolant when the pressure got really high, which generally only happens when the engine overheats. The newer "closed" systems are designed to run with the radiator all the way full, and the cap allows coolant to purge into the overflow tank every time it gets hot, not just when it's too hot. The cap is also designed to allow the coolant from the overflow tank to get sucked back in when the engine cools back down again. In order for a closed system to work properly, you need: 1/ Fill the radiator completely, and make sure there's some coolant in the overflow tank as well. 2/ The end of the hose must be located at/near the bottom of the overflow tank, below the coolant level even when cold. 3/ You must use the correct radiator cap. If your overflow tank doesn't have any coolant in it, you need to first top off the radiator (when cold), then run the engine 'til hot, then add coolant to the overflow tank, then shut off the engine and let it suck coolant back into the radiator as it cools. Repeat this cycle as necessary until the coolant level in the overflow tank is between the "cold" and "hot" lines when the engine is cold. If you find that you have to keep adding coolant forever to keep it between those lines, then you've got a leak somewhere.
I would check the sensor and the thermostat. I have also seen leaky sensors contribute to corroded terminals and false indicator lights.
why would head gaskets fail for rusty water? i have rusty water in mine. I flushed it until it was clear for over an hour. I drained it ran a prestone citric acid cleaner, drained it flushed it and refilled it 50/50 with nice green antifreeze.. Two days later its brown. When I first flushed it I opend the drain and nothing happend?!! So I poked into the hole with a screw driver and loosed up the grime. Then came the flood. After flushing until clear that hole was wide open and everything was a beautiful flowing river of coolant. Now a few days later its brown again, I opend the petcock and again, nothing came out. had to poke at it to get it to drain!! Brown water. Are my head gaskets about to blow because of this?? God I hope not I cant take another hit.
I've got a 98' Z28 with the LS1 and 170K miles on it. I Transplanted the whole drivetrain to a donor car 15K miles ago, after the kid totaled the first car. The low coolant sensor in the totaled car had been lit for 20,000 miles by that time, but with no run problems at all. I didn't have time to get a new low coolant sensor for the new radiator when I made the swap, so I installed the old coolant sensor. When I fired the new car/old drivetrain combo back up, the same old low coolant light continued to burn for another 10,000 miles, just like in the old car. Turned out that my power steering return line cooler (the one inside the radiator hose) had been seeping slightly the whole time. It ruined all of my hoses from the inside out since oil and rubber don't mix for long. It took 10 flushes with Dawn dishwashing detergent to clean all the oil out of the block, heads, and radiator. The low coolant light (with that same old sensor) has been off every since then, for 2,500 miles now.o No:
