location on 71 350-4V block for z bar pivot ball

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by Clanceman427, Jul 28, 2012.

  1. Clanceman427

    Clanceman427 Hardtops need not apply

    Hello, I did a search on this and did find some threads which addressed this but I didn't see any pictures. I have a 350-4V out of a 71 Skylark and I am going to make my car a 4 speed. This engine is going into my 64 Special. In my search I saw that someone mentioned they put an X on the "boss" area to mark where to center their drill. I don't know where to drill and tap for this on my 350 block, does anyone have a picture or drawing of where this tapped hole should be for the z bar ball stud? Attached is a picture of my engine, if you look behind the exhaust manifold there is a bolt or something but maybe that's a water jacket drain plug? Would the ball stud go somewhere above where there is the inverted "350" and "3" is? maybe on the vertical surface adjacent to the transmission dowel pin? Any guideance appreciated.
     

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  2. Clanceman427

    Clanceman427 Hardtops need not apply

    Update: dimensions and pics attached for this!

    Thanks to Harold (Hprouty) who hooked me up with some great and helpful photos with measurements of a manual 350 SBB for the bell crank pivot ball. Attached also is a back side view of my engine so you can see that the automatic blocks have the bulge of material to allow for that blind tapped hole. Harold says it's about an inch deep. I took measurements off of the pivot ball I got from The Parts Place, Inc. and it is a 1/2-13 UNC thread, and from threaded end to the shoulder that butts up against the block is about 5/8". Hope this helps, it sure helped me!
     

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  3. hwprouty

    hwprouty Platinum Level Contributor

    Glad it helped you out Kevin!
     
  4. Clanceman427

    Clanceman427 Hardtops need not apply

    Update: pivot ball installed!

    Well I got my Z bar pivot ball stud installed in my 350 block (thanks again Harold measurements were spot-on!). Take a look at the pictures. I remember seeing on another thread that someone was asking how can you install the ball stud with the engine in the car? Well, from what I can tell, you really can only machine the threaded hole in your block with your engine in your car if there is a lot missing. For instance, my car has no drivers fender installed, no trans, no brake master cylinder or primary line, etc. Having no trans made it possible to jack the motor up from the bottom and pivot it up so that the drilling with a 1/2" drive electric drill could be possible without the frame getting in the way. I took my measurements, marked the block, center-punched the starting point, then started with a 1/16th drill and worked my way up thru my Dewalt drill set one-by-one, not skipping any sizes. Took my time, used oil to cool each drill bit as I went. I used masking tape to mark the depth on each drill bit as I went. It really went good with no hiccups. Once I got to the last bit in my kit (3/8"), it was time for the tap drill, which is 27/64" for the 1/2-13 UNC thread. Looking back I probably could've drilled a little deeper, because my ball stud didn't thread all the way down, but a 1/2" lock washer took up the slack and also gives me a little peace of mind that it won't come loose. The pics show how I had to use some extensions and a ratchet wrench to use on the tap, since the standard T handle couldn't be turned in the cramped space.
     

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  5. Sportwagon400

    Sportwagon400 Well-Known Member

    great info I'm putting a 350 in my 65 special wagon
     

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