Line lock install help plz

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by techg8, May 26, 2011.

  1. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    Hi guys

    I have a Moroso anti roll setup I am installing.

    Instructions say for my brake system I should plug the right front brake outlet from the proportioning valve, and install the solenoid in the line from the left front output from the prop valve, then feed both left and right front brakes from the line lock solenoid outlet.

    Kind of a pain, IMO

    I would rather just install the line lock / anti roll between the master cyl and the prop valve in the front brake supply line.

    I understand that it would trip the brake light when the soleniod was engaged to lock the fronts and I lift off the brake pedal, releasing the rears.

    so here is the Question: Lets say I set it up like that, engage the lock, release the brake pedal, the light comes on, I disengage the system. A few pumps of the brake pedal should normalize pressure in the front/rear brakes and reset the brake light, no?

    would I be risking damage to the internals of the prop valve's brake light switch?

    How do you have yours hooked up?
  2. monkeyy337

    monkeyy337 monkeyy337

    My race Regal is set up exactly like you want to set your car up. When I engage the line lock (and pump the brake pedal two/three times) the brake low press light comes on and stays on until I let go of the line lock button and pump the brake pedal a few times. I don't think it makes a difference but I have a GN power master system on my Regal.
  3. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    The line lock does that in my car too, except the light goes off after the line lock is released. I think it's kind of cool actually.
  4. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    outstanding, thats how I will do it.

    thanks for the replies guys.

    I actually like the idea of the brake light coming on as an additional reminder that I am using the line lock.
  5. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    Ever have one of those projects that just wouldnt stop kicking you?

    That was my linelock install today.

    Nothing went easily, made a huge mess, had to walk away........:rant:
  6. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    Pretty much every project.

    What's going on with the line lock?

    What whooped my butt was discovering that the line lock uses pipe thread fittings, not flare.
  7. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    It ended up ok....the brakes work fine, I have yet to hook up the electrical and test the lock though

    First I couldnt make a double flare for my life. Dont know where that skill went to....just disappeared. Broke that little guidepin off the tool in the line. Never done that before.

    Finally got the lines done then I couldnt get the brake caliper bleeder to open. Trying hard not to snap it off. Took forever to crack it open, and of course I just didnt have the time to waste.

    Finally got that done then it gave me fits bleeding. Gravity wasnt doing it. The mityvac crapped out. I went to get my pressure bleeder which of course I find out was broken.

    I "fixed" that and filled it up with fluid....pumped it up and immediately sprayed pressurized brake fluid everywhere.

    So I cleaned up and locked the bleeder down and called it "done"

    Just one of those jobs should have been easy, but sure wasnt.
  8. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    Sounds normal.:rant:
  9. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    Got it wired up great

    Thanks for the help
  10. Tim

    Tim Silver Level contributor

    Ken, can you please send pics of your line lock setup?
  11. 19Skylark68 455

    19Skylark68 455 Neighborhood Nuisance

    I second that request for pics. Tired of getting squirrely in the water box at the track and melting the rear pads. :3gears:
  12. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    Pics as requested.

    Line Lock is niiiice. smooth easy burnouts. really like it.

    I plumbed the unit into the front brake line between the master cyl and the prop valve.

    I removed my cigarette lighter and ran the wiring and switch through the hole.

    BTW this is not the way the instructions said to hook this up so I dont recommend it. This is just the way that I chose to hook it up, and it works just like I wanted it to. Your car may be different. Be careful, it is your brake system after all.

    Attached Files:

  13. Tim

    Tim Silver Level contributor

    Thanks Ken, this is the way I want to hook mine up as well however the directions tell me to plumb it in after the prop valve so now I have spent $200 on new brake lines and a new prop valve bracket to relocate it up by the master cylinder. I will look into plumbing it like you did.
  14. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Ken, you probably don't want to hear this, but mounting the solenoid on the inner fender was a bad idea. Whenever possible, it should be mounted on the master cylinder/booster assembly unless you use a generous amount of brake tubing between the two. Mine is mounted on a bracket I fabricated that uses one of the two master cylinder studs.

    The reason for this is that normal driving causes movement between the two surfaces, and the MC/booster moves because the dashpanel (firewall) flexes every time the brake pedal is depressed.

    You've probably seen production brake tubing coiled below the master cylinder before it heads for the prop valve, this is why. Movement between brake joints must be minimized because the fatigue strength of the tubing is poor.

  15. Tim

    Tim Silver Level contributor

    Here is what I bought to relocate the prop valve.

    Attached Files:

  16. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    No, you are right Devon, I thought about just that but decided to ignore my better instincts. It was a hulluva install and I just wanted to get it done.

    Thus my disclaimer in my pics post. I know it aint installed exactly "right"

    Thanks for the good info though.
  17. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    No prob!

    You could always buy a pre-flared piece of tubing long enough to put a 2" diameter coil in and reach between the ports if you just want to leave the rest alone.

    For what it's worth, today I went underhood to check out my setup and I confess I'm not 100% happy with it, either.

  18. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Instead of starting a new thread on the subject I'll just add on to this one with my question. I installed a Line Lock on the Lark today. I ended up doing it just as Ken did here with the exception of mounting it to the fire wall next to the master. Short runs with the new brake line. That all went fine and I'm happy with the install. I could not find a way to mount the suppled momentary switch so I used the horn button.:grin: I thought it was a great idea. Just un hook the horn wire and use the power supply for the line lock adding in the red light inside the car. My dilemma now is that it wont hold the car at much more than an idle. Lock the fronts down and bring up the RPM's and it pushes. Any ideas?

    BUICKRAT Torque Rules!

    How about some pics of the broken tool and the look on your face when the brake fluid was spraying everywhere?
  20. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Briz, it sounds like you may have underlying issues with the front brakes not related to the line lock install. Check to make sure the drums are adjusted properly and that the adjusters work properly. Make sure there's no shoe contamination from brake fluid, grease, etc. Best to check all four corners while you're at it. Of course this assumes the fluid is new and there's no air in the system. Internal master cylinder leakage can also be a culprit, but as usual, one thing at a time.


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