OK, we decided to throw a bunch of parts together and go drag racing:grin: I was working on rebuilding my 71 GS 455, but got the bug to go to the drags again. We have a 70 Skylark/GS clone that we were going to make into a racecar years ago still sitting. The glass windows and regulators are gone from the doors, so we want to use "plastic" windows. Anyone know of a good source for them as well as a mounting kit? I thought the GS windows that year were the same as a Chevelle, yes???? Thanks, Craig
The pre-cut stuff is rediculous($)...I don't even know if they make it for the older cars anymore. Check around for a glass company,the stuff you want is "Marguard".Very high quality and easy to mistake for glass. As for the mounting,just be creative(tubing w/ tabs or flat straps),I've seen alot of different methods,some good,some bad,just as long as they stay in at speed.
laxan windows Hey guys, I run a Buick 455 in my 81 Olds Cutlass and I put laxan windows in it. A buddy of mine has a sreen printing shop and he got me a 4 x 10 sheet of laxan and I managed to get all of my windows out of one sheet. The problem is you have to make sure that you are careful aound them. They scratch real easy!!:ball: Second, if you tell someone not to touch the windows because they will scatch they usually get mad. :stmad: Too bad they do not understand all of the effort you put into your car and they think it takes 10 seconds to make these windows.:moonu: My total investment on the windows is about $150.00 including the sheet of laxan, rivets, and brackets. Just thought this info. would help. Tony
The 3M version w/ "Marguard" is very durable,you can treat it as if it were glass,more money but you will only do it once.
Gary, where in the Cleveland area can you get "marguard"? were goin' on a Diet this winter! Randy:beer
JBRC latches Guys, When doing lexan windows, one of the biggest problems is often keeping them from getting sucked out.. Jerry Bickel has a cool window latch, to solve this problem. Saves you from building monster window framing, just a light frame, we use aluminum here, and a latch on each window does the trick. I have attached a pic of our old Regal, which had those latches. And I agree with Gary... get the better, scratch resistant Mar-Glass, or another derivative, called Tuffex. Well worth the extra cash. JW
Jim, Years back when I went to order mine (complete set, sorry don't recall from who it was mail-order) The point was I mentioned the "four letter word" Buick (you get the point). Oh well he said that has to be special ordered. The price nearly knocked me out! I told him no thanks. About a week later called up and asked for a complete Chevelle set up Mar glass. THe price difference was like $200 bucks. Everything fit perfectly except the rear windshield had to be trimmed some what, but not much. My '70 does have the 70 Chevelle Mar glass in it. Another economy method of the side glass was to get to pieces of plexi glass that are curved on one side. The curve part is screwed to the side window and the base is bolted to the door frame. This enables the side Mars Glass to be pulled into the car like the factory curve. Its held up for 6 years now reaching speeds of 135 with no problem. The rear side 1/4 windows were glued in place with the original chrome window molding re-installed. Yeah its low tech, but at the time it was low budget, and it worked. Just never bothered to change it years later as it still is holding up. Rick
Heading out one more time. Hopefully December 7th at Atco, NJ if it doesn't snow. Looking for those 9.70's if the weather is right. Then it's under blankie for the winter. :grin: Outside of a new racing disc brake set, new convertor, different scoop, and a slew of smaller items on my Santa wish list. Rick
I know that it can be bought through Summit. The shipping will kill ya. Check in your Yellow pages. Mike
Thanks for the info guys! Jim, I was looking at that Bickel kit on their site, but I'm still not sure how it works. It looks like you weld a loop on the A-pillar. Then do you just rotate the latch and then lock it down? Can't wait to get started on this project. We're shooting to have it together (albeit in primer) by the summer. Hoping for low 11's with the street car motor in it for now. After we figure out if we'll stay with the door car and then do it right. Maybe some paint :laugh: and bolt on the aluminum heads with some compression and a real cam! Craig
Yes, the latch assembly is screwed to the window, and then the little hook pivots with the assembly.. It's spring loaded just right, so the latch goes "over center" to stay in place. expensive, but they work neat.. You typically weld the loop to the halo bar of the cage, if you just have a roll bar, your going to have to do some fancy fabricating to make some type of mount off the roof. JW
