Leaking fuel line

Had my brake line repaired a couple of weeks ago and now I have a fuel line leaking in the same location. Must be like fixing plumbing in an old house, fix it here and it leaks there!

the line looks like it is leaking where it passes through the frame rail.

Do I have to replace the whole line, front to rear, or can I slide a piece of rubber fuel line over the bad part and clamp it down food. Or can I cut out the bad and splice in a new section of steel line?

thanksgivingthanksgiving

 

There are metal and rubber segments for the fuel line. Do you know precisely where your line is leaking?

 

It is probaly the rubber line cracking at the connection with the steel line and the gas is going backwards into the frame.

 

It has been too cold here to crawl under the car and check it out. It's in the 50's!

I hope it is something simple like a cracked rubber hose and not that snakes nest of plumbing going through the frame.

Thanks

 

Napa sells a small fuel line repair kit, essenitally a short piece of tubing and the compression fittings to splice it in (you can also buy the parts individually)
You just need to bend it to the proper shape.

on the '67 I used to have some owner before me had the same problem of a fuel leak where it goes through the front frame and used a similar method though rather than feed it back through the frame they just ran the line under. I think I'd rather take my time to run it through the right way myself.

 

You can put a new line on, I did my Son's 66 Cutlass just last week. New 3/8 pick-up/sending unit, new 3/8 pre bent fuel line from In Line Tube. I took it to a friends place where I could get it on a 2 post lift and get his help. The old 5/16 line was cut in the middle for an inline electric pump, we started by taking everything old off. There were a few clips holding the line and one bracket with a screw coming from the top through the frame holding it in place at the rear. The screw had a 5/16 hex head and was easily removed (and later replaced) with a ratcheting box end wrench. We started the new line ar the rear, shoved, bent (or unbent as it was) and pulled it into position or near. Then went to the front and started getting the front in place. It goes through the frame in 3 places/holes but with both of us and good lighting, pry bars, screw drivers, wood blocks etc we got it close. Then we took the passenger side of the transmission cross member loose, jacked it up, pushed the line into place above it, re attached it, and continued working the new line into position, and reshaping it to what it should look like. Put new rubber lines front and rear. Really wasn't that bad, took about 2.5-3 hours for the entire job. Hopefully never need to touch it again.
You can do it.

Mike

 

Love to have a lift to put the car on, that would make lots of work easier.

Supposed to be in the 70-80's this weekend and I'll start on it then.