No you don't, but as Philip has stated, you will need to add Zink to the oil. Emissions, and O2 sensors don't like Zink, and with the advent and use of hydraulic roller cam shafts, the need for Zink is greatly diminished. I find it much more convenient to just purchase oil that has the correct additives to begin with, instead of playing Chemist. Bet of luck with your repairs.
Thanks all. I found a 16 oz. bottle of Lucas engine break-in oil additive that has zinc. Timing cover had a few burs that i was able to sand down with 300 grit sand paper. Set up the gear and they moved freely and with the new thrust plate i was able to get a clearance of .002. Pack the gears with petroleum jelly and set the cover to the side. Got the Cam bearing, cam, lifters and intake installed today. I have the Edlebroke Performance intake and can't seam to get the right size PCV grommet. The intake has a thicker opening than the stock intake.
Regular Oil mixed with a bottle of ZDDP. Will not be near as effective as Driven Oil or Like.. ZDDP will not mix into the standard Motor oil till 165 degrees them the Hi detergent content just washes the ZDDP off the motor... so whats the point of it being sold.. Yes you need Racing oil.. Driven oil,, Maximum oil,, Brad Penn,,, ...Valoline VR1 is a good oil but its not as good as the brands I listed
I use Driven oil, it's expensive but hey I only have to change the oil once a year given the car is only driven in the summer months
Put the grommet in the freezer to shrink it some or use a razor blade and shave it down some. The grommet most parts stores sell never does quite fit but TA has the better one.
Update: So over the weekend i was able to get everything button up. Fired it up after priming the oil system and broke in the valve train for 25 min at 2500 rpm. so far so good, no noise and oil holding at 25 psi temp at 185. Set the dwell afterwards and let the car cool down as im in the garage with a floor fan on high facing the radiator. Yesterday wanted to set the timing (Power timing as per LARRY70GS ) Turn the key and it cranks but wont fire.....Ugh...Do the usual checks and my Accel coil from back in the days has had enough...Today i pick up a MSD Blaster coil from my local uocal autoparts store. As i'm removing the old coil somehow my screw driver fall of the engine and lands in the fan shroud..No biggy, get the new coil in and the wife come out the hear it start. I get in pump the pedal and it fires right up. Yessss. wife walk over and said to me. as the car is warming up, "Something is leaking in the front".....WTF. Turn the car off and sure enough coolant on the floor. Not a lot but its leaking from somewhere Remember that screw driver? Upppp, It managed to to give the rad a pin hole.....Great... Old 4 core rad from the late '80, And not one place around here that repairs Radiator. My son's wedding is in two weeks and i've been trying to get this car on the road by than so i can drive them in it. Soooo I'm looking for a radiator on the cheap so i can get it done by than while i find a place that can repair my old one at a later date...
Had the same thing happen back in 198? with a dull butter knife instead of a screwdriver. Not even sure why there was a butter knife laying on the radiator cover...but it fell down when the car fired up and the fan sent it right into the rad. The initial shake-down cruise had to wait for that repair which ended up growing into a complete re-core. Probably a blessing in disguise because the original radiator was weak and really soft. Every time we got one leak sealed another one sprang up. Hoping that's the last of your setbacks and that everything else goes off without a hitch. Except the wedding, of course!
Thank Philip. Asking around and so far no luck. Napa quoted me $500 that was coming from Cally. Rockauto has some for far less then that. Just hope i can get it before the weekend.
Ok found a rad and installed it today, here the latest saga. open the car door and now there are no interior lights, fuel gauge is pointing down by the oil light, No parking or headlights on when i pull the light switch. Did i blow something that may have cause the old coil to go bad. This all happened when i was adjusting the dwell with a multi-meter. Sounds like both fusible link? Thanks
Thanks Larry Good connection on both. Was just under the car and one of the wire that lead to the fusible link is fried, But its fried before the link?
Thanks Larry. All ready ordered the links and going over all the cables below. will have the fix that one wire that is fired and have it ready tomorrow when the links come in. Also i hope i didn't damage the fuel gauge, needle is pointing at the oil light at the moment.
Break out the meter, http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/fuel-gauge-and-sender-operation-and-diagnosis.330220/