1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Jack points on a 1970 Riviera

Discussion in 'A boatload of fun' started by jbrauertn, Nov 19, 2009.

  1. jbrauertn

    jbrauertn Well-Known Member

    What are the correct four points to lift my 1970 Riviera (X frame) with a two-post auto lift?

    Thanks!
     
  2. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    The rear pads go on the pinchweld. The fronts go on the frame rails.

    Never ever ever ever let a repair shop lift your car. They will set the front pads up under the fenders every single time.
     
  3. Dale

    Dale Sweepspear

    You got that right!
    I had a cow when I had tires put on my '66 Riviera at a Firestone dealer and saw how the car was place on the lift. :af:

    My '70 shows signs of past improper jack/hoist placement.
     
  4. major_mitt

    major_mitt Kiwi Buick

    I've seen mine picked up on that seam that runs along the sides of the car under the doors (sills?). Is that right? I know thats where you pick up Jap cars from.
     
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    The problem is that if you place all 4 pads under the frame, the car become too tipsy as the lift pads are too close to the center of the car.

    The rear pads are positioned close to the rear wheels on that pinchweld.
     
  6. Dale

    Dale Sweepspear

    When all 4 are placed on the pinchweld, you have the entire weight of frame and everything attached to it hanging from body mounts.

    I've placed stands under the frame in all 4 spots, and never felt the car was unstable.
    Personal preference I guess. I've placed them both ways.


    This is from an old Texaco lube chart I have that shows suggested lift points. Though, those rear ones look to be beyond the point the frame starts to go up over the rear axle. :puzzled:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I remember lifting it once with all 4 arms on the frame and not getting the warm fuzzies about it. I think the difference is that the lift arms have a little flexibility to them when they're extended all the way out to reach the frame points. I normally lift the car till the tires are just off the ground and give the bumper a shake. If I dont feel comfortable about it, it comes right down

    Your right about the rear locations on that chart Dale. Strange
     
  8. Dale

    Dale Sweepspear

    I always give a car a good shake before getting under, and check the bases of the stands to make sure they are sitting square on the floor.

    Wish I had a good solid pair of ramps. :idea2:
     
  9. major_mitt

    major_mitt Kiwi Buick

    I've got ramps, they are handy for doing gearbox swaps if you don't have a lift.

    Only problem is you usually have to actually jack the car on to the ramps if you want to keep it in the garage which kind of makes them a bit redundant...
     

Share This Page