Is this a good idea???

was going to go with a ford 9 inch eventually. unless this seems like it'll hold up to a pretty nasty 455, and a SP TH400....?
If it's a good idea i'll go for it (less one of you guys out bids me )

-Brendan

 

If you are asking if the Ford 9" will hold up to the power of a 455 the answer is YES, if its built with the good parts.

 

heh, i meant to put a link to a 12 inch... on ebay right now. forgot it. i'll get to it later today... i was wondering if the 12 will hold up.

 

You'd be surprised how quick you can go with a well-built 8.5" 10 bolt, too.

Devon

 

A 7.5 will hold up fine if you're not running slicks, swaybar and stiff springs. The 8.5 should be the best fit for your application, but the 12bolt will work fine as well.

 

A Ford 9' from a Lincoln Versailles is an exact fit! with wise, it measures 58'' the same as the Regals or any G body.Unfortunally it only comes with 28 spline axels (it's like7/8 inch wide *fairly weak*)and standard 2.50:1 gears.The good news is you can get 31 spline Axels cheap for 9" and center sections from almost any Ford 1/2 ton pickup(60's to mid 80's) work well with many gearing options.:Brow: The Ford 9" is verry Versatile and strong enough for Gobs of Torque if built right Good luck, hope this helps
Eggs

 

Hey, here's what I intended to be asking if it was a good idea.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-to-72-chevelle-or-78-to-87-Buick-Regal-Rear-End_W0QQitemZ320080254028QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
not even sure if i could figure out how to pick it up. but i was curiouse if this would be a good idea, lets say if i could find one locally?

OR Where is the best place to start in building(preferrably buying) a whole 8.5 that will hold up. i've got almost everything i need for the build, trans is coming in a few weeks, measuring for motor mounts today. but i don't have a good rear, and i'd like one, so my first cruize isn't a one wheel peel, then break.....

I'd like to buy a rear complete, brake to brake, bolt in, attach brake lines, bleed, GO. But once again i am on somewhat of a budget... the ford nine was not to be coming for some time if at all.... if i can get an 8.5 that's good enough affoardably, maybe not at all.

Thanks,
-Brendan

 

I like the stock G body 8.5 better. It is a direct bolt in.and way easier to find parts for.:blast: :blast: :blast:

 

i could be wrong, but i thought the 12 bolts out of a bodies were a little big too wide, which i guess could be compinsated for by wheel backspacing or something.

 

Hey dan, i see you have an 84 regal with a 455 in it... my 455 has stage one heads... so probably around urs. just wanted to know what you did for a rearend.
-Brendan

 

well, i have the 7.5 with 373's. now i havnt had mine on the strip yet, but it spins my drag ta's at quarter throttle like im on an icerink.so it will hold up as long as i dont hook. im looking to find a 8.5 or have a 12bolt cut down or a nine inch when the money is right.

 

The rear end in question is out of a 69 . It will not fit 64-68 too narrow. the one on e-bay will fit 69-72 . A 12 bolt in a drag car is quicker than a 9 " because it takes less power to turn the 12" than the 9" Ford .

 

My 78 Malibu used a 12 bolt out of a 1970 Monte Carlo by using south side machine bars and a 8" wheel with 5 1/2 back spacing to get the wheel/tires (Mickey thompson ET streets 11.50 X28X15 tires or Hoosier Quick Time 275X60X15 tires under the car. I think South Side Machine are no longer in business but you can buy them on E-bay used. My 84 Regal uses a GN 10bolt with Moser axeles, spool, 4:10 gear with "C" clip eliminators and has run 7.00's (had to slow it down to meet class ET requirements) with no problems. Good luck

 

I put a 9" under my 455 83 Regal after my welding buddy talked me into it instead of a 12 bolt. He narrowed the housing for me and did the brackets. His brother (the machinist) resplined and shortened the 31 spline axles for me. I made 3 passes with it on some old ET Street M/T and with the engine bone stock. After rebuilding the engine and putting on a new set of M/T DOT Radials, it made it 6" from the line on the first run breaking one axle and twisting the spine off the other. I now have new Mosier axles and have no problem. What I don't like about the 9" is that the tubles are much larger dia. and this created issues with the springs. It is also much heavier. If I had it to do over I would go with a 12 bolt or a 8.5 with good stuff. Just my take on it.
Jim N.

 

Regardless what rear you end up using, buy the best stuff you can't afford so if you up-grade the motor at a later date (more horsepower) you don't have to go back and re-do the rearend. You can't over-due the rear end with good parts that will last, you only want to spend your hard owned money once.

 

I like that, i've been doing that from the get go. have about 6 g's in the motor, ordered a tranni i can't affoard, don't realy know how i'll insure it. gonna get a paint job i can't affoard. i've bartered some cheaper new chevy parts, for almost not used buick parts. like my MSD distributor and wires, was on a motor for 50 miles, so now i have to buy the chevy version wich is about 100 bucks cheaper. also gonna buy a clutch and trade it for the Torque converter (more exepensive than the clutch). I plan on putting the best stuff i can into the rear, just trying to figure out what the best way to go is.

I also like whoever's signature is, if you don't have the money to build it right, where will you find the money to rebuild it. heh, i hear that.

-Brendan

 

I agree with this dude! I have a 455 4-speed and the versailles 9" in my car I haven't had it out on the road yet but it will be strickly a street machine , otherwise I would most likley get 31 spline axels. I have a 55 chevy belair with the same rear end and 1 more rear end for a spare so I'll use up the stock stuff first . I like that if I'm going on a long trip I can just throw in another center section in about 1/2 and hour . I like in a town were there are 2 stock car track so finding parts is pretty easy.
Hope that helps?
Brad

 

I agree with Monkeyy337, fix the rear right the first time. I always start there and spend my money for the rear end parts and rear suspension the best possible. And also go over the front suspension and brakes and make it all safe and strong. You can run with a weak engine and a strong rear a lot better than the other way around. My last three race cars have been put together that way. The chassis was far better than the engine to start. I can race with a slow engine but when I get the money to upgrade all I have to worry about is the engine.
JIm Netherland

 

Will a 28 spline 7.5 10 bolt hold up to a mild street motor or would it be better to change to the 8.5 you guys were talking about? I have the 26 spline now but can buy all the 28 spline parts for 100.00.

 

8.5 all the way. Don't waste your money on a 7.5! Oh, by the way. If you decide to go with the 8.5 you will also need the driveshaft that comes with it as the 8.5 driveshaft is about 1" shorter than the 7.5 driveshaft. Almost forgot to include that.