Could be, but it sounds more like #2 rod. Where's that smilie... oh here it is OK, just a minor setback. Parked the car around 1986 to start this little project, so what's one more summer, right? Need to do some engine and engine bay detail anyway.Need that smilie again Good time for me to learn how to degree a cam properly. So... short term goal.... repair (hopefully) original-read numbers matching- engine. Long tem goal..... build another engine to play with. I have a block with XF code,dated 148(?), casting #1241735, serial #43Y134407..... and a set of heads, casting #1241860. Is this a pretty decent foundation to build on? Any recomendations? I thought this was gonna be the year to just drive and enjoy.Once more with feelin'
OK, I finally got to .... ....work on MY stuff a little bit.. Can't get the image links to work except for thumbnails, pics are HERE
Sorry to hear about the knocka-knocka noises!!ou: Judging by those casting #s...the block & heads are '73 or '74. Heads are 71cc (same as '71-'74)....block will have the larger 5/8" pick up tube. Should be good enough pieces to start with.:TU: BTW...the links come up 'forbidden - no access'.o No:
Personally - I'd just plan on building the "Play' motor now.....why go through it twice ?!?!? ....I know - Money but why pay twice ???
Scott, thanks for the info!:TU: Alan, I agree and I am leaning toward doing the play motor first. I still would like to have my original engine in good condition, and since it "was" a running engine, I may do it first so that I might get to drive the car some next year. Then I could spend more time getting the play motor right (ie; Buick friendly machine work, etc.) I'm not sure which way I'll go, yet. May decide when I finish tearing apart this engine.
One other thing.....when you build the "Play Motor" and turn up the wick a few notches from stock.....be prepared to do the rest of the drive line as you're sure to find the weak link soon with a fresh 450+hp motor !!! I did the motor and tranny together, and promptly twisted up a drive shaft, replaced that with a strong aftermarket piece along with HD U-Joints and proceded to blow up 2 10 bolt posi's. .....all in the name of Torque !!!! (and a heavy convertible )
Buick machine work Can anyone give me some leads on Buick friendly machine shops that may be within driving distance to me? To give you some reference, I'm about 4 hours north of Charlotte, NC; around 4 hours south of Columbus, OH; 2-3 hours from Roanoke, VA. Anyone know how far AM&P is from Charleston/Hunington, WV? I think I remember someone referring to a reputable shop in North Carolina, but can't remember what/who it was. How about Earick's in Ohio? Any web links would be helpful for research!
Go to the main page one of the revolving links is the Buick directory hit the engines link and there is the link for Earicks and others.
There is a good machine shop in Greensboro, NC by the name of Triad Engine Exchange. Bob Stanley, owner. Tel. #336-372-8727. Just rebuilt my '67 400 and did a great job. :grin:
I would think that you could get it done locally. The thing is, ask around and find out what all the "Buick Tricks" are and have the shop build it to your specs. I am lucky, Jim Wiese is my local engine builder:grin: but with the right info, I suspect that any reputable shop could do a good job. The advice to beef up the drivetrain is right on. The cars are heavy and the torque is HUGE, that spells disaster for things like driveshafts and rear ends. Since my engine will likely crank out between 475 and 500hp, and I plan to drag it several times a summer, I am having a custom driveshaft built and installed a 33 spline 12 bolt rear from Moser. I am hoping it is wicked quick and dead reliable, I hope your turns out the same!
Thanks for the leads guys!:TU: There are 3 local shops- 2 of which farm out stuff like crank turning/polishing to shops in Charleston. The other guy builds/races some nice Chevys. I hope to get to talk to him to see if he will do work with the specs. I provide. Anyone have any feedback on these TRW Pistons?
The guys at Buicks.net have a great chart for keeping track of measurements you can find HERE But when you can see light shining between a cast piston and cylinder bore......
gsgns4me; I don't think those heads are '73 or later 'cause they only have one scallop in the middle.
Those are pics of my original engine stuff. Thought I'd play with the heads so I'd feel like I was doing something while I'm saving up some money for the machine work that needs to be done. I still need to look at the extras that I have to use for a play motor. Still haven't decided which to use right now. I just can't let go of the idea of keeping my original in one (good/working) piece an not scattered all over the place.
Feedback For the record..... I have used Brian Earick for my engine on my gs, and i must say he has done a great job for me. We have had some parts failures but, i can honestly say, Brian has been very accomodating when i have needed assistance. We used some aftermarket rocker shafts, (i believe ordered from Poston) and experienced a couple of failures with them. The last of which has resulted in a bit "deeper" problems. I firmly believe that Brian knows his business. He is standing behind my engine and getting it back together for me. John
Well.... Keep the faith, I hope your engine gets squared away. One comment though, I would be seriously concerned about someone who claims to really know Buicks and buys engine parts from Postons. I know from experience, I bought thousands of dollars of parts from them, and most of them were junk. Nothing from them is going into my new engine. I wouldn't go so far to claim that TA perf is perfect but, they are MUCH better. Buy your carpets and door panels from Postons, buy your engine perfomance parts elsewhere. Just my 2 cents Good Luck
