70 Skylark, big block. cam looks 23.5 inches log, which would put it in front of A/C condenser and into the center hood latch/grill bracket.
ashtray, and LED bulbs all done. no more dash speaker - 6x9's in the front doors after making custom grills and cutting holes in the new Legendary door panels. engine is the last thing other than a frame off 3.42 8.5" rear, upper front control arms, all Legendary interior, TH400 totally rebuilt, JW converter, gear vendors OD, etc.., etc. Held off doing anything to the 430 since it runs solid, but I have no clue what cam or pistons are in it as I bought from a friend decades ago and when he bought the Electra it was freshly rebuilt. I keep going down these rabbit holes but it keeps me busy. Thanks for all the replies!
I’ve done it before on my ‘71 350 GS Radiator, a/c condenser had to be moved, I can’t remember if the core support/hood latch brace needed moved also, the 350 is a bit shorter than the big block. Would be REALLY easy with the body off
Add me to the list of people that have swapped cams with the engine in the car by removing the radiator, condenser and hood latch support.
Yeah, it's possible. That's not the important question. This is just like changing a rear main seal with the engine still in place. Sure, it's possible. The bigger question is whether it's desirable. By the time you get all the crap out of the way to make room for the cam, you could have disconnected some wire harnesses, popped the fuel plumbing and coolant drain plugs, three torque converter bolts, a handful of bellhousing bolts, two engine mount through-bolts, and lifted the engine out and onto an engine stand. Which is then going to make the actual cam swap easier, it'll be easier to connect the degree wheel and dial indicator so that you're assured the new cam is synch'ed properly to the crankshaft...and as a bonus, it'll be easier to get all the gaskets back in place on clean metal, with no leaks. Touch-up the engine paint. And with an automatic trans, you have no input shaft/pilot bearing/clutch to dick with. Should be a snap. But all that is moot if you don't have a decent engine hoist, engine stand, and--ideally--someone to help you with the hood removal.
If you think about it, and I do/did, the procedures involved with removing the engine to swap cams, I would rather deal with handling smaller lighter weight more manageable parts than removing a big chunk of sheet metal (hood) removing a big chunk of iron (engine) laying on my back disconnecting the trans. HEADERS And all the other ancillary devices Plus room for the engine on the stand next to the car, I’d rather do it in the car
I probably would pull the engine if I had the space for the hoist and car in the garage. A swap to ported stage 1 iron heads that I have sitting around is what started this project, and not looking forward to lifting the manifold and heads while leaning over the fenders, but can maybe rig up something to help lift. Driveway is not really an option for pulling the engine, since it is sloped and exposed aggregate so rolling the hoist would not be fun. I could push the car halfway out, pull the motor, move everything out of the way and push the car back in.
All being said, yeah, I've had my engine out of the car in about 40 minutes from running, but radiator and condenser and accessories off inside of 20 minutes and not have to pull the hood. Just depends on the job.
It's easy enough to do. The hood latch support has to be moved but doesn't need to come out. It's probably a horse a piece for time and ease of job pulling the motor vs leaving it in. The deal breaker for me is messing with the headers, I'd rather not mess with that project.
