Installed my "dura-cool" (hc-12) R-12 substitute today

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by nailheadina67, May 13, 2004.

  1. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    I had to try it, the nice thing about this hydrocarbon based refrigerant is that it mixes with ALL kinds of oil and is an inexpensive alternative to Freon (R-12). I am surprised at how light this stuff is, a 1 lb. sized equivelant can only weighs 6 ozs. The high side pressure is lower than Freon, about 125-150 lbs. That is much lower than R-134, which is 300 lbs, much more than what my Buick was designed for.

    Well, even with the new reciever-drier, it doesn't cool "marginally better" than R-12 as the manufacturer claims it does. In fact, it is no better than what I would expect from R-134 (which will NOT work with mineral oil used in R-12 systems- you have to flush them first).

    It was 90 in here in Buffalo today, and my center outlet used to blow 45-50 degrees on hot days with the old R-12. With this crap it only blows 60 or 70 and that's rolling down the road at 60 MPH.

    I don't recommend anybody use this stuff, at least in an old POA system like my '67 Riv has. It is marketed as "Dura Cool" and "HC-12a"

    I think I will evacuate this junk out of there and try some freeze 12, even though it is made from R-134 and a blend of another chemical. Does anybody have suggestions for me about this? :bglasses:
     
  2. Smartin

    Smartin Guest

    I converted to R 134, and it's not as cold as R12. I never get below 50 degrees blowing out of my vents. But it's better than a kick in the butt!!
     
  3. 73Electra 225

    73Electra 225 Well-Known Member

    Got Freon?

    :laugh:


    :laugh:



    [​IMG]




    Thanks Doug!
     
  4. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    You just HAD to rub it in, didn't you!:af:

    :laugh:
     
  5. Madcat455

    Madcat455 Need..more... AMMO!!!

    How do you measure the output temp. at the vents??? Is it just like a Dig. Thermometer you buy at target, or is there a special tool???

    As for the Freeze12.... I'm not sure on the output temps, Mine is funny... If I turn a corner it gets nice and cold, and if I'v driving. But at a light for a bit it does seem to warm up (allthough its still cold)... I think I could just use another can...lol.

    Good luck Joe... AC isn't a fun thing to be without. :(
     
  6. skyphix

    skyphix Well-Known Member

    I use the old 2-55 AC...
     
  7. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    I have a thermometer specifically designed for this purpose. I used to do auto a/c work professionally years ago just before they ruined things by making R-12 into a memory. Anything warmer than 50 or 55 degrees at the center outlet is considered too warm. :bglasses:
     
  8. Ken Warner

    Ken Warner Stand-up Philosopher

    ac temps

    Don't know what you all expect but I believe most if not all of your newer car AC systems only spec. out at -20 from ambient. You may get better (and usually do) but there are no free rides here. R12 is tough to get and WAY FREAKIN' EXPENSIVE. 134 is relatively cheap and widely available but doesn't cool as well. I just switched to 134 myself. Cools ok and I can allways dump in a $7 can as needed (damn the leaks)! I was not willing to screw around with the alternate refridgerants or blends as I didn't want to deal with thelack of availability when I needed them.

    regards
     
  9. Riviman

    Riviman Well-Known Member

    I retro fitted my a/c in my 71 Riv with 134 and it really was a disappointment. So I looked around for an answer. I think on this board I found instructions to modify the expansion valve and the stv. After I did that the a/c would cool down to the low 40's on a hot day doing 50-60 mph.:grin: It's cool enough for me now and keeps the wife happy.:Brow:
     
  10. 71GSX455-4SPD

    71GSX455-4SPD Nick Serwo Magic Car

    Do you mean this tech article from George Nenandovich's site? Specifically, this line:

    "Remove the expansion valve (that is the thing that goes into the bottom, or inlet, of the evaporator with a round hat on the top about the size of a half-dollar. Leave the expansion valve capillary tube attached to the inlet of the evaporator. When you look at the expansion valve from the bottom you will see a brass cup about 1/2" x 3/8" deep with a hex hole in the middle. Find an Allen wrench to fit the hex hole or grind down a larger one to fit. Ok here's the secret that makes it all work. I charged and discharged the vehicle 10 times to figure this out.

    You must eat this article when you are finished reading it. Place the Allen wrench in the hex hole and turn clockwise until it stops turning. Do not force it when it bottoms out! Now, turn the wrench 2.25 turns counter clockwise and that is all there is to it."

    I thought of this also when I read the problems nailhead was having. Probably worth a shot!
     
  11. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Perhaps I should try that...........I also read somewhere else that if you set the poa valve for 26 PSI as oppossed to the 28.5 factory setting it will cool better. I know if it is set too low the evaporator will freeze up. I wonder if 26 is the correct setting for this Dura Cool stuff also?

    I'm going to try to find out the temperature/pressure relationship of this stuff and compare it to that of R-12. I think R-12 is around 32 degrees @ 28.5 lbs. of pressure but I am not certain.:Smarty:
     
  12. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Hope I can ask a few AC questions on this thread. I am currently trying to get the AC working on a 65 Mustang (don't ask) Question 1.It has a new compressor, dryer and condensor. The problem is I cannot get the system to suck (it does) fluid.
    Question 2. The compressor has a tag on that specifies ester oil. What fluids are compatible with this?
    Question 3. Any guesses on how much oil for the system?

    I have two cans of Dura Cool and hopefully can have some info on how it works.
    Thanks for any info.
     
  13. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    If it is a factory system, you need to find a service manual. I would guess it takes about 10 or 15 ounces of oil in total. That's just a wild guess. You don't want to guess here, it's better to be certain than sieze your compressor. Assuming there is oil circulated throughout the system, you may have to remove and drain the compressor and then install a specified amount of oil. I think some older Furd compressors use a dipstick but I know very little about them.

    If it is not sucking, check for a restriction in the hoses. Ester oil is compatible with R-134 and Dura Cool, perhaps you should use the 134 b/c it is easier to get. I ordered my Dura Cool and they sent it to me by Fed Ex in 3 or 4 days.

    Good luck!:bglasses:
     
  14. Riviman

    Riviman Well-Known Member

    Yes that is one of them. I did that one first and it lowered the outlet temp about 5-8 degrees. Them i did the other adjustment to get the stv valve pressure lower( read it somewhere on this board ). That lowered it enough to be real comfortable in the car even at idle at a lite it still feels close to a factory charge of r12.

    Just want to say thanks to all that posted those instructions.:Comp:
     

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