1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Ignition system Question

Discussion in 'Buick FAQ' started by CERRITOSWELDER, Apr 26, 2014.

  1. Hello, I recently got a new engine wiring harness... everything seems to be hooked up correctly, but when I turn the key,.. my starter has a very hard time turning over, and there seems to be no spark going to the ignition coil/distributor... so i disconnected the yellow wire that splices into the pink wire going to the ignition coil, and then turn the key.. the starter turns over much faster like normal. Can someone here help me understand why the starter has a hard time turning over and there is no combustion in the chambers when i have everything hooked up "correctly" ? I dont want it to be the coil, can these burn out? just a few weeks ago everything was working out fine, had a spark, starter was turning over when all hooked up. the new harness i got was off of a two door smaller size wildcat, and the connectors to the regulator also look different.
    thanks, Andy
     
  2. DeeVeeEight

    DeeVeeEight Well-Known Member

    Hi Andy,

    I don't know if I can help or not. Can we get some more information about your car? What year, make and model, and engine - transmission?
     
  3. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    The yellow wire bypasses the resistor wire to the points while cranking, and gives the points straight 12 volts for easier starting.
     
  4. Hey thanks for the reply, My wildcat is a 1964, with an automatic transmission, and im new to cars, this was my uncles car and I inherited it when he passed away. I do believe its a 425 7.0 litre engine. Id be happy to post some pics of what everything looks like, im gonna go out there now :D
     
  5. Thanks Jason, it was starting right up, but now it seems like there is no power getting to the coil or maybe not enough, I only know very little about cars to begin with, I have read about the resistance wire, and seen on the diagram I have that it connects to my ignition switch and to a neutral safety switch. Ill post some pictures of what i have going on. :D When iI have that yellow wire connected, the starter slows wayyy down, almost sounds like it doesnt wanna crank at all. I disconnected the wire and then cranked the starter and it sounded fine again, so Maybe its the battery? but the battery reads 12.5 on the meter, and also 12.5 when I connect it to the charger, I HAVE been charging this battery for some time now though, maybe the battery is messed up somehow? i dont know much about batteries. I also havent bought the manual for this car yet... plan on it very soon. thanks for the help!
     
  6. Sorry for the late replies! Ill be on here checking more often now! Im gonna go take those pics ill be back:bglasses:
     
  7. CAM00349[1].jpg CAM00347[1].jpg CAM00346[1].jpg CAM00345[1].jpg CAM00348[1].jpg :Dou: This is after i untaped the harness that came from the two door wildcat.. I dont know how the wires were set up in that cat but every wire was there. i just hooked it up this way seemed like common sense at the time, but maybe there was a better way to hook up the harness, but It seems like when it was still taped up, the wire going to coil wasnt there, Im sure it was but i couldnt find a diagram for the other car. also the connector to the voltage regulator has an extra wire on it that my old harness didnt have.
     
  8. TexasJohn55

    TexasJohn55 Well-Known Member

    Yep, seen that. When you put full 12v on the coil and it cranks slow, it is because the coil is shorted out and pulling all the power from the starter. Proof is when you remove the wire, it cranks at normal speed.

    Well, I waited 20 minutes but no one took the bait!

    You didn't give much history or back story on the car. My first impression was that the timing was too fast and trying to kick back. Have you fooled with timing or distributor?
     
  9. How Did I manage to short out the coil? And yes, before I switched the wires out, the firing order was wrong, and engine was backfiring quite a bit, so i rotated the distributor just a tad to advance the timing a little, because smoke was shooting from the exhaust... at first black, then a bluish smoke. so when i advanced it, flames shot from the carb. I had no clue that the firing order was wrong, until I went out to the car after getting frustrated, and noticed it had been switched around. Since then Ive put it in the right order.
     
  10. Thanks Everyone, Ill keep you guys updated. Makes perfect sense... Why would the coil short out? Thanks again! when i get the new coil ill Hook er up and let ya know how it goes!
     
  11. TexasJohn55

    TexasJohn55 Well-Known Member

    Don't sweat the coil, it shorts out every time the points close, just check your firing order again and retard the timing. Set timing with light after you get it running. Let us know how it goes.
     
  12. I retarded the timing a little, and the starter sounded like it was turning over a little faster, but thats about it..., I checked the battery again, this time it says its 12.55 and the post got warm to the touch after a few cranks... bear with me Im completely new to this stuff. I replaced the starter myself before, got the carb rebuilt, and it fired right up. no engine probs, still need to change the oil, but thats about it, my fusebox is pretty rusty, and the car could use some new connectors and I believe there is a wire under the dash that runs to the fusebox that has been melted a little, its a red wire. Im not sure how this works, but my uncle had a killswitch in the car before, and no condenser on the voltage regulator, soim not sure if the alternator even works. i had it hooked up before, like i said, and it ran, but i only drove it around the block to test it out.
     

Share This Page