I think,i`m in oil pump trouble

How do i check that Walt?take out the oil filter and then?

Thanks

 

It's in the adapter block the oil filter screws on to. Remove the three bolts and take it off. There's a spring loaded valve built into it. I don't think it can be easily taken apart, as a retainer ring is pressed in. (I could be mistaken, I haven't looked at one in years) You can at least flush it out with solvent and see if anything comes out. I think you'll be okay, as it doesn't sound like your filter was clogged/restricted. Might as well check since you're there...IF the garbage got past the pick up screen, clogged your filter, opened the bypass valve, and into your main oil galleries...then your bearings are in trouble. I'd bet you're okay.

I wonder if the oil galleries can be 'blown out' to clean them....maybe remove an oil gallery plug (behind timing chain), and blow out with compressed air???? Just a thought. If you decide to remove a main bearing cap to inspect, torque spec is 80-110 ft-lbs for main cap bolts!

 

Walt,i dont think anything went past the pick up cause the screen and behind the screen was clean,so i should be ok,i will change the oil filter though.

Thanks

 

Walt,can u send me a copy of the `66 GS fuel pump schematic form and where the lines come and go from ur manual?


Thanks

 

Well, there is a pic in the manual, but my scanner is down...so I'll try to describe...
The supply line comes out of the frame..., then a connecting hose, then line to carb... goes straight (maybe 6"?) then makes a 90 degree right turn... to go under engine (is held to oil pan at front two bolts). goes to under fuel pump, bends up to pump inlet.

If you have air conditioning, there's a return line running from top of fuel filter, under water manifold, to line in frame.

Hope that helps, I can look at my cars toworrow....

 

George
Here's the diagram from the '65 manual.