Maybe you've seen my post on the suspension noise I had Its here - http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?246029-Help-identify-this-front-suspension-noise with a video where you can hear the noise. From discussion on the board, and talking to other Buick guys, I knew the problem was the springs. Its one of those problems where people tell you what to check, but you cannot picture it. So for a $22 diagnosis, pep boys immediately heard and saw the problem and I got to stand under the car for the first time. The springs were in right side up, but they were clocked wrong. The end of the coil was about 3" past the 'peep hole' To remove and replace the springs (I had new ones) pepboys wanted $108/hr and said it was almost a 3 hr job. I declined as I had thought about doing them myself anyway. After the mechanic at Pepboys showed me what was wrong, how the spring was not clocked right, I could immediately see the problem My first idea was to use a spring compressor and compress the spring in place, then twist it to the proper location and release I rented a spring compressor at Autozone, but I could not get it into the spring though the coils or up though the lower control arm. The scary part, besides not having done any spring work before, was reading about springs popping out, being so dangerous etc. Well these huge springs are under a lot of pressure For anyone planning to do this.. here's the basic steps I took. Raise the car and support it on the frame behind the front wheels Let the front wheels hang Remove the brake caliper and hang it, I used some wire to tie it to the frame Remove the top shock bolt Remove the bottom shock bolts and slide out the shock The sway bar can get in the way, at the very least you'll have to remove the end links. I loosened the bushing brackets too Remove the cotter pin in the upper ball joint bolt Loosen the castellated nut - my ball joints are new enough that the pressure from the spring was enough to separate the joint You may need to smack the knuckle with a hammer or use a pickle fork to separate. if using a pickle fork take care in not destroying the rubber boot if you don't want to repalce the ball joint too. At this point, I took all the safety considerations I read about and I did put a change though the spring and lower control arm and bolted the ends Put a floor jack under the lower control arm, and take the weight off the spring. The upper ball joint should get loose now, and you can likely remove the castellated nut by hand Stand away from the wheel well opening, the handle of my floor jack was at the front Slowly lower the jack and the ball joint will separate. Keep lowering The spring will 'pop' loose as shown <embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w75/cstanley444/GS455/IMG_2294.mp4"> When I did the other side, I didn't realize I put the chain around the sway bar too..it kept the control arm from lowering fully Seeing how uneventful the passenger side was I had the guts to push on it, thats when I realized the chain was too tight. <embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w75/cstanley444/GS455/IMG_2299.mp4"> So I removed the chain, and the spring popped right out <embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w75/cstanley444/GS455/IMG_2300.mp4"> Here's what it looks like, with the spring removed To put the new spring back in, push it up in the upper spring pocket, there are a couple tabs up there that fit inside the spring to keep it centered. Hold the spring and lift the lower control arm, aligning the bottom of the spring into the lower spring pocket. It went in with a 'snap' It does not fit in there easily, so get your jack under the control arm to take the weight. I then used a 3ft pry bar, to pry the spring into the pocket. I got both springs aligned on that 'peep hole' on the first try Once the spring is in, jack up the lower arm and guide the ball joint into the spindle Put on the castellated nut, tighten and replace the cotter pin Remove your jack. Put the brakes back on Put the shock back on After both sides are done, put the sway bar back on The job took me about 4 hrs That included staring at the springs for a while to decide if I was actually going to do it And gathering tools and cleaning up the garage With help it would go much faster. The springs I removed were Hotchkis I really didn't have any issues with the ride, but decided for factory springs to go back in. The Hotchkis springs are really heavy duty, and just a little shorter than the replacements, but I never felt the car was low in the front Only one booboo too... When I was taking the castellated nut of the passenger side ball joint, the wrench slipped off and I scrapped my arm on the wheel well molding. A very minor scratch but it bleed like I dont know what. One of those cuts you get where there's zero pain, but you sure look like a tough guy with blood running down your arm and dripping on the floor LOL All back together now And on all 4 wheels Test drive today at lunch time!!!!
Very well documented. Did the same job 2 weeks ago on my 75 Riviera. Planned to install the springs the way you descibed, but..... was impossible to do. The angle between the lower and upper arm was way too much. Really needed to compress the springs first (used an hydraulic press and '1200pound' ropes ray: ). Did you also changed the insulator?
Yeah I can see that... if my spring was a little longer I would have been in the same situation. There were no insulators and I don't believe the A-body cars had them.
good job! I know exactly how you felt, did the front on my 2wd truck last summer. Compressing springs for the first time is kinda scary thing but once you've done it.....feels good!
Man, I wish mine was that clean! I've got 46 years of grease and crud to go through, but will be doing that soon.
Ugh!! Geeez!!! The same noise is still there.. <embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w75/cstanley444/GS455/IMG_2310.mp4"> So I'll recap... New springs new ball joints new control arm bushing new end links new sway bar bushings new shocks (rubber bushings are in place) So lets go back to my "help identify this noise" thread here http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?246029-Help-identify-this-front-suspension-noise
Try spraying some WD40 up in there where the springs contact the frame and lower control arm to see if it goes away. if so Id get insulators. After all your a pro at it now!. It took 2 days for me to do mine but I sand blasted everything and repainted while it was apart. I also had to jack up the opposite corner of the car to get enough pressure to raise the lower arm up enough to get the nut on. when I lifted the lower A arm the whole front lifted off the jack stands. What a PITA
Yes, flat side up. Cut coil is in the lower control arm, and lined up with the peep hole. Steve that sounds like a chore! I did spray up into the pocket with a penetrant lube to coat the bare metal and protect from rust. Keep the ideas coming! I did notice the upper bump stop is missing on both sides But it only hits that at full suspension travel when the wheel drops right? Im not hitting bumps that big
A little bit of an update today Went to Daytona for the spring car show Met a couple of other board members for the drive out They could hear the sound, and when stopped for gas, I was able to bounce the front and make the noise. Cant see anything moving when the sound happens, but you can feel with your hand, that its coming from the lower ball joint area So, even though the joints were supposed to be new by the last owner, I guess I'll be trying 2 new lowers this week (just as well to do both lowers) ... will update back
Just realized I never updated back with the end result The cause of the 'snap' or 'crack' noise was a dry upper ball joint! Here's the thread and how I found it http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...y-this-front-suspension-noise&highlight=noise
