Hi All! I have a 1986 regal with a t-10 ( 3 ring) and 3.90 gears out back. I built a hyd. set up using wilwood parts 3/4 master and 7/8 slave . I can't even use 1st gear as the hole cars "shudders" I'm assuming it's clutch chattering? I have never had a stick shift so I'm a newbie at this. When I'm on the hwy. at 50mph ( in 4th gear)and punch it sometimes I smell rubber and sometimes I smell clutch? At around 3700 when I punch it the tach goes to 4200 or so really quick and the cars "lags" but as I said sometimes I smell rubber and sometimes clutch? . I'm using a stock type 11" LUK clutch. I had a 11" Hays street strip and it was very stiff! At first I had trouble with fork angles so I used a lakewood adjustable piviot ball and a longer throwout bearing so I could even get the clutch to disengage! The motor is pretty healthy engine builder says about 470 HP and 550 for torque. I was reading some of the posts in this section sounds like a similiar problem? I didn't want to "hijack" the post so I started this one. I was wondering if my line from the master to the slave was too small and the clutch wasen't releasing quick enough? Any thoughts on that? Or I was wondering as I built the 9" I used Edelbrock adjustable upper arms to get my pinion angle to 3 degrees down maybe I have a bind in the geometry? Any thoughts? But it's ok in 2nd to 4th? I was so pumped building this car now that it's on the road it's not a whole lot of fun to drive! I'm wondering why build a good motor if you can't use it! Gotta be a solution!
I'm sure there's a solution but with your setup, I don't think I can give you an easy answer. If the clutch is releasing completely and the flywheel surface is good and your clutch is slipping, you need a stronger pressure plate. With 550 ft lbs of torque you need to be buying racing parts and not stock ones. I bet someone on here knows more about this than I do. :beer
Go to this sight: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/ And search for hydraulic clutch problems. You'll get better answers than here. Not enough guys running hyd. setups here.
Good site Thanks I haven't found any solutions yet but I'll keep looking! Lots of stuff for a T-56 swap that I was considering! Sounds like most people are using either a 12" Mcloud or centerforce dual friction? I wonder if the 12" would fit in the stock bellhousing?
No it doesn't. I have one I couldn't use. It hits the reinforcement webbing inside the bellhousing. It's really made to work with a Lakewood or McLeod blowshield.
I went for a drive with my engine builder buddy. As soon as I went over 3700 he instantly said "clutch is slipping" He said with the kind of torque these Buicks put out stock parts just won't do!! ( Just like what was said in the posts above-Thanks) I just phoned Cenerforce they gave me part # DF148552 Anyone used this ? Good ? Bad?? What's with the 500 miles break in that Centerforce recomends???? I'd be lucky to put 500 miles on it all summer!!! This will be clutch # 3 :rant: Thanks Brad
I do know that Centerforce really stands by that 500 mile break in. Or you'll be replacing clutches prematurely. I say try it. You can't beat the setup for that price. But Buicks don't really need the weights and centrifical holding power because of the torque they make down low. SBC's need the weights to hold because they have to rev to get into peak torque. Just make sure the rest of your drivetrain is built to hold up. Driveshaft yokes, bigger u joints and a good posi.
As for first gear, are you running a stocker aluminun ST-10? If so I think thats a close ratio box and your first gear may be a 2.43. A 2.43 first gear and a 3.90 rear are a poor match (My opinion) I know. I ran both a Buick 350 and a SBC 383 with a ST-10 and 3.90s. I was never happy with that combo. You do have way more power than me though. You want the car to be more fun? Match the gear combo better. When my Regal had New Process 4 speed overdrives, It was more enjoyable. The NP boxes had 3.00 first gears and it work great with the 3.90s. I changed to the ST-10 for strength. It was a choice I regret.
Thanks Paul! I ordered it! I'm getting quicker at replacing clutches !ou: It starts to slip just before 4000 RPM's ( that keeps me out of trouble ) so hopefully this will work! I'm getting better at "rowing through the gears " too. I have 3 boys 7 to 12 and they love going out in the Buick. I had a new driveshaft made when I was building this car. New yoke too. It's a 9" with a trac loc ( 4 pinion not a 2 pinion one) I've noticed cracks between the rear window and the side windows! :TU: I thinkl I've finally built too much motor for the car! What's it going to do when I get the clutch to quit slipping! Time to start bracing the chassis I think? I really don't want to put in a cage! With the 500 mile break in period. Do you think with 3.90 gears 500 miles is still nesessary? Or does it go by the amount of shifting not reveloutions? Thanks Brad
The t-10 was out of a 76 firebird? All aluminum ,It's a 3 ring ( on the input shaft) The 3.90 gears are from my old 81 Malibu with a 383 . It had a th-350 tranny. I thought the combo was great! I'm looking at the Tremek 5 speed as on the Hwy the Rpm's are a little " much" lol I must be getting older! I'm finding with a standard the throttle is so sensitive to the slightest change in RPM's causing the car to "jerk" at HWY speeds I don't recall that with the automatic?. You might be right! I do have another carrier and Trac Loc to build another gear set. I was thinking 3.25? Crazy but a few years ago I tossed out about 10 old gear pots with a 3.25 and a 3.00!! while cleaning house!
MOST regals crack the body between windows because GM didn't put body bushings in all loctions!!! especially the lower half under the door and b-pillar used on the metal retainer(NO BUSHING), and many left off #7 benind rear end at gas tank and bumper, So your body is located by only 6 or 8 of the 12 BODY mounts (two more are for the radiator core support. T-top cars were especilly bad for cracking there. while yu're at it replacing the MISSING body bushings, add the "GNX" body bushing (p/n 488610, SORRY no longer available, but found on almost all other GM cars, even other A & G body wagons, just have to feel behind rear wheel on frame) YEAH you are making MUCH more power than stock configuration, but all info is helpful, I hope! You never know when somebody doesn't know what you do!
I'm thinking more like 4.11s or 4.56s. The sensitivity to rpm change "jerk" is part of stickshift life with a balsey engine like yours. Know it....Live it.....Love it:3gears: :3gears: :3gears:
With that 1st gear ratio X rear end gear, you're looking @ a 9.477 Starting Line Ratio which is good. What are your intentions with the car? A street car, strip car? I've done it all from 3.08's with a 2.20 to 4.10's with a 2.52. It really depends on what you're comfortable with and what you're looking to do.
This will be just a street car. I don't live any where close to a drag strip. I'll wait till I put in the clutch before I decide if I need another gear in the rear I guess. Looking forward to seeing what it's like past 4000 RPM besides 3.90 uses enough gas! LOL
Your right I'm getting used to the " jerk" I love downshifting! Boy you hardly have to touch the throttle to go!! LOL about 4.11 + It uses enough fuel now!!:eek2:
Your right about the body bushings missing . I discovered that 12 years ago when I first bought the car. I kept hearing a rattle out back like the bumper was loose. I put new body mounts in then ( both sides were missing!!). I'll have to look under the b pilliar as you say. Thanks!
