Huge gap between intake and block

I've been aggravated with the giant gap between my intake and block rail. It's factory deck with Stage2 TE's and an SP2a intake. I have to use entirely too much silicone between them and it always ends up being an oil leak.

I will say this...I dont use a splash pan like the factory intake gasket supplies,an I am wondering if there is something I can fab up next time the intake is off to try and keep oil from splashing up on the bottom of the intake.

I use the Scavenger oil pump and it really cranks oil pressure especially when it's cold and I'm thinking the oil in the lifter valley is flying everywhere and running across the bottom of the intake and coming out of the fissures in my sealing job at the ends.
The last time I fired it was this past weekend after putting the intake back on and I had a river of oil coming from the backside,like it was flowing steady from the bottom of the intake. I used a feeler gauge and,yep, i had left a gap in the sealer...so I now packed in the sealer to fill the gaps...knowing it's probably going to leak still,but maybe less.

So...does anyone else have this problem??? If so...what to fix it? Maybe machine some spacers to go between the intake and block? I thought maybe welding a bead on each end of the intake would work too. Would the splash pan control the oil being thrown up on the intake? Inquiring minds want to know...Fish

 

You could fab up your own splash pan, but AMP has them. They hang over the front and rear end rails and are made to go along with the composite gaskets (in varying thickness) that you can buy.

There's a photo of it in this thread:
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=145296

 

What thickness are you using for the intake gasket? Are your intake dowel pins straight?

I had an issue earlier this month fitting my stock intake back onto the block. I was using composite intake gaskets and the intake didn't seem to be sitting down enough to close the gap you mentioned. I also had a hard time getting all four corner bolts started. Didn't seem to get close enough to line up the holes in the intake with the threads.

After getting pissed off and throwing some tools... I remembered that one of by intake dowels was a little bent (maybe from the machine shop removing it) and TA had sent me the thickest version of the gasket that they had (0.62"). I ordered-up new dowels and an 0.47" gasket. This did the trick and the manifold then seemed like it belonged on the engine. :TU:

Also, check out page 147 of the newest TA calalog... http://www.taperformance.com/index.htm#x

This is a solution for oil throwin...

I cut-up an extra pan gasket per the instructions on this page and it seems like worked out great.

 

Here's a photo of AM&P's taken from their website:

 

Dig it, that looks nicer than my hatchet job.

 

I tried messing with a stocker too, but it was more of a headache than the $35 for the pan above was worth!

 

Agreed, the AM&P part is worth every penny. I also used the Sealant that they suggested in the instructions. Way better than silicone.

 

Steve, what is it they recommend, if you don't mind me asking?

Devon

 

Devon,

Although not the Steve you were replying to, I'm guessing they're recommending "The Right Stuff" sealant?

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/gasketmake.htm

I got mine several years ago, and I don't know what they were recommending then, but the Right Stuff is what Rick H was using for this seal.

 

That is the stuff. I hate calling it that because it reminds me of the expanding foam used to fill gaps around doors and windows in houses.
It is really a good product though. It cures just like a rubber gasket. My intake never leaked oil.

 

Cool...thanks, guys.

Devon

 

.100 no dowels

 

I have used 3/8 rubber hose and split it down and sliding over the block to fill the gap sealing the ends with silicone. Maybe not the right way to fix it. but it did not leak after that.

 

I'll see if I can cut some .250" aluminum plate and drill it to locate over the dowels. I need a set anyways.

 

Block decked? Heads shaved? If so the intake may be setting too high anyway. May need to check port match and bolt hole match to see. If so the intake will need cut to drop it lower.

 

Yipes... you're out of my leage :eek2:

 

With the heads milled, or if the block is decked, or anything is changed like that (within reason) , I think that there is a funky formula for milling the intake
on all engine mating edges to help fill in that gap using the milled engine parts measurements and will port match a little better. I bet some engine bluprinter guru knows the formula.
I've never done it, but I think it's out there somewhere.

I use the AMP pan, Performer intake, and Ultra Copper. Fortunately, it is reusable as well.
I think mine leaks in the back.

ElectraJim

 

My example was skewed more towards OEM hard parts.

If your test intake fit fit doesn't fit right on a fresh rebuild, or even after a cy. head rebuild,..what do you do if your intake bolts don't just drop right in, or that there are gaps, or port misalignment, etc.

I've always wondered whats the best way to fix it.

ElectraJim