HR Parts Rear Bar

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by LARRY70GS, Sep 1, 2006.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    These pictures are for Alan Wander (69GS400's). He was concerned about interference with his exhaust pipes/hangers) My bar went on with no problems whatsoever.
     
  2. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    Thanks Larry ... Now their for Everyone !! :beer

    What I was talking about on the phone would be a shot looking UP at where the link goes up from the bar and connects to the body
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I'll see if I can get that tomorrow.
     
  4. Stg'd 2Discover

    Stg'd 2Discover Lumpty, Lumpty, Lumpty

    Larry,

    Are you using this in combination with air bags and/or no hops.

    Tom
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    TA Performance No-Hops and The HR Parts Bar, Yes. I previously had air bags, which are still there, but inflated to minumum pressures (5 psi)
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    More pictures
     
  7. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    Some good pics Larry, thanks. As you know I will be running this bar in the future. Can you tell me how the bar is centered or how you know you have the correct spacing for the links to the bracing/frame?
     
  8. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    Measure 3-4 times.

    .... Im on number 2 :Dou:

    I was -><- that close to talking my buddy into letting me use his shop / lift today to do it :ball: would have been nice to try if E-town is a go tomorrow
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    You measure the rear crossmember from one frame rail to the other side(approximately 43"). You then subtract 31 3/8", and divide by 2. Then you measure in from each frame rail that amount, and make a mark. Those two marks are the center point for each end link bracket. You measure 1 5/16" on either side of the two marks, and center punch the spots. You drill the 4 holes and mount the endlinks. The endlinks should be nearly vertical. The axle tube brackets should be 23-27" apart. The wider spacing is best for handling. Mine were 27" apart and I centered them by measuring from where the axle tube meets the pumpkin. Easy to do on a lift. I was fortunate enough to have access to a regular lift, and an alignment lift. Alot of measuring to do, but if you're careful, the bar goes on straight.
     
  10. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    Great, so if I'm understanding you correctly, this would place the links approx. 6" in from the frame on each side?
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Approximately. You have to measure your car, they are all different. My crossmember from frame rail to frame rail was about 44" (if I remember correctly)
     
  12. gusszgs

    gusszgs Well-Known Member

    Thank Larry, going to get under there tomorrow and measure. :TU:
     
  13. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Cool Larry - What's the advantage of this bar over factory - both in theroy, ride and feel???

    - Bill
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    There is no comparison. The factory bar goes from one lower control arm to the other. It indirectly affects roll stiffness. It is not as effective as the front bar. That is why you can go very big on the rear bar without it adversely affecting handling. The HR bar clamps to the axle in the middle, and the endlinks connect to the body. It is much more effective. Ride?, I noticed no difference. Handling improved alot. Steering response is better. Traction, We'll see.
     
  15. simon1243

    simon1243 Got Torque?

    is there a way i could get a setup like this for my 73 riv
     
  16. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    No, A body only according to the catalog.
     

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