Thanks for the welcome bhambulldog! Its a '65 Chrysler Flat Six with a Carter YF carb. It's been running rich lately. We've already tried adjusting the air-fuel mixture screw but no improvement. We're thinking we may be able to fix it by adjusting the timing. Our company operates in an international airport so most of our equipment is aircraft support related. My friends dad started the business back in the early 70's and their family has kept all their machines (even the old ones) in great shape. We went through our parts room and we stumbled upon his dad's old RAC Maxi Tune dwell meter. This brought back a lot of fond memories for him and he wanted to go "old school" and use the RAC to tune the tug. Hope you guys can help us get our grandfather tug back on the tarmac. Thanks! Manolet
Went through four MSD Ready To Run Distributors on the Ford shop truck, finally told MSD to keep their junk. Installed a Davis Unified Ignition HEI dist been trucking ever since! I think MSD started sourcing parts overseas!
I enjoy my points, I prefer to run things I can replace and rebuild myself whenever possible. Points allow for adjustment and quick simple replacement with acceptable performance for a stock vehicle. I would like to try out dual points one day and honestly I don't see any issue with setting points. I don't even use a dwell meter, I just set the gap with a feeler gauge for new points. I will probably get a dwell meter soon though so I can adjust the points when they wear down a little. The points open closed or bad feature I would like to know more about. Honestly the biggest pain of points is getting the rubbing block on the peak of the cam by yourself.
i agree with Larry, 100%. i change the points & condensor every two years. i check the dwell a couple of times each year. i remember when we would change plugs, point and condensor, air filter once a year, many years ago. then we were averaging 15-18000 miles/year.
Flat six?o No: Or, slant 6 ? :idea2:Maybe, Flat head? How about some pictures?:kodak:The Slant sixes I worked on were all Holley one barrel. Carters are good, too (My Roadmaster runs a Carter 4v). Timing maybe the issue. Maybe, a carburetor rebuild.
Funny thing, I Googled; Chrysler Industrial Flathead Six. First hit is this; http://www.allpar.com/mopar/V6/flathead-tug.html
@Manolet; Also, from the picture; I recognize that Carb as the same as I had on my Chev 292cid 6cyl truck. Maybe, it's too much (jets are too big) for the smaller flathead? The headers are most interesting. Maybe, the choke needs a choke stove(?) Can you see in this picture, we added a choke stove? the Stove straps to the exhaust manifold, an insulated tube provides heat to the automatic choke.
I wish I got a chance to learn this basic sort of stuff from my uncle. I still have his Snap on meter that says dwell/cyl/rpms and such. Never used it except for rpms....
Sears still sells the perfect tool for dwell: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00902165000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
After, looking at the pictures of your tug on ALLPAR, I have concluded that; The rich mixture condition is caused by the lack of heat for the carburetor. Lack of heat being from, the removal of the original exhaust manifold for the installation of the headers. The original exhaust manifold on the flathead six, nestled under the intake, at a position directly under the carb. If, the original manifold or a replacement is not available, I would suggest; A stove on the headers be fabricated and piping to provide heat to the intake manifold under the carburetor.
Hi James, Yup, that's our tug. Thanks for providing a photo as reference. Is the choke stove hollow inside? I'm trying to see how we can create this with our existing exhaust manifold. Hope you don't mind that I straddled two forums. I stumbled upon V8Buick when I Googled "RAC Maxi Tune dwell meter". Again, thank you guys for all the help! I'm really learning a lot. Merry Christmas to everyone! Manolet
@austingta: Thanks for the lead on the dwell tool! If all else fails, I'll order this from Sears. The next challenge is how to properly use it.
Yes, the pipe is hollow. And the stove is dished, with the open side against the exhaust manifold. Here's the kit I got from NAPA or Advance Auto; http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ALUE3-_-VALUE4&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=9110107 But, I think, more importantly, you need heat to the underside of the intake at the carb. A similar but much larger stove and pipe would be needed. Much easier said than done, I'm sure. I'm most interested in Chryslers as well. Good luck. Please, keep us posted. Perhaps it would be better to Post Chrysler material in the "Other Bench" forum right here on the V8Buick board.
Thanks for the tip on the stove James! I'll ask our tinsmith to find a way to get this done. From the Philippines, "Maligayang Pasko sa Inyong Lahat!" (Merry Christmas to everyone!)
I don't speak or understand Tagalog. But, I do speak some and understand some Spanish. So, I wished Manolet; Merry Christmas, and, a Happy New Year, in Spanish. They also, speak Spanish in the Philippines. I guess, the polite thing to, would have been to translate. My apologies. And, Merry Christmas, to you and, all!
Here's a thread on the H.A.M.B. with an engine similar to your tug's. With headers and a stove to the intake manifold. Specifically; post #7 link; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429644
Thanks for the visual pegs James! I showed the pictures to our tinsmith this morning and he has some ideas in mind already. Looks like fabricating around our exhaust pipes is going to be our biggest challenge. I'll keep you guys posted on developments. Please let me know if you're coming to Manila. Dinner is on us! Manolet
