1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

How much gap is too much??

Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by badbuik, Apr 18, 2003.

  1. badbuik

    badbuik Well-Known Member

    I'm getting ready to install my intake on the "Nitrous 470" but have a concern. When I set the intake down to check the gasket thickness, and the gap between the block - end rails and bottom of the intake, it seems that the .062 composite gasket is perfect, but the end gap is at 1/4 inch, and without the gaskets, it's 3/16, like I said the intake gasket thickness seems perfect, the ports all line up great. It just seems that 1/4 inch of silicone may be much. Yes, I have read the previous posts about silicone abuse, and its' been awhile since I put a motor together, maybe 1/4 inch isn't a big deal. Alittle extra info.; the block is decked with the piston .012 in the hole, about .015 off the deck, and about .036 milled off the Track Eliminator heads. Thanks, Gary G
     
  2. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Gary,

    Your saying that .036 was taken off the heads... did they take it off the intake sides too?

    Are the intake bolt holes in the head, dead nuts in the center of the intake manifold bolt holes?

    At any rate, use the factory end seal.. it's .210 thick, and then use a small bead of "The Right Stuff" gasket maker on top of the end seal.

    I would recommend glueing the end seal to the block, with 3M Black Super Weatherstrip adhesive.

    Let the whole works dry for at least 24 hours before firing the motor, and it should be just fine.

    JW
     

Share This Page