1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

How does this thing work?

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by EEE, Sep 24, 2004.

  1. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    I've noticed somthing with my transmission and I'm not sure if it's supposed to do it or not. The car is only using the third gear it seems like. It starts on first and then quickly shifts into second like at five mph, then goes into third at 25 and the rest on the third. If I'm going lets say fourty and I floor it, I don't get that sharp downshift that I thought was normal. The cars rpm's increases but it doen't feel like i downshifts. Is this normal or is there some kind of adjustment done to it to keep it in third. The transmission was rebuilt just before I got the car about six months ago and a shift kit was installed. The car runs fine, but I'm just curious how the set up should be. I had an old Falcon from 78 and when you went about 40 with it and floored it, you got a sharp downshift and a squeeze against the seat. On the Buick it's more of just a sharp increase in the rpm's, but no real jump. Any suggestions are as usual most welcome.

    Have a nice weekend..
     

    Attached Files:

    • sky.jpg
      sky.jpg
      File size:
      20.1 KB
      Views:
      167
    EEE, Sep 24, 2004
    #1
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    It's not downshifting. What trans do you have? TH400 has an electrical kickdown, TH350 uses a cable. Which is it?
     
    LARRY70GS, Sep 24, 2004
    #2
  3. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    th 400 I believe
     
    EEE, Sep 24, 2004
    #3
  4. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    When I stop the car and take off again, the car strarts over in first gear. You don't really think about it, since the car pulls pretty nicely in third, but it struck me that I never got that squeezed in the seat sensation when a car downshifts and accelerates.
     
    EEE, Sep 24, 2004
    #4
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    It's a very simple system really. There is an electrical connection to the drivers side of the transmission. Some transmissions have 2 connections, the kickdown is the bottom or vertical connection. When this connector receives 12 volts, it energizes a solenoid inside the pan, and the transmission kicks down. 12 volts is passed down to the transmission from a sliding switch mounted on the gas pedal linkage. Start by looking at the wire at the transmission. It might have fallen off, or is damaged, it could be that simple. If not look at the gas pedal switch. It has 2 wires going to it. One wire should have 12 volts with the ignition switch in the run position. The other wire leads down to the transmission. Check for 12 volts with a voltmeter, or test light. Check for continuity between the gas pedal switch and the transmission connection with an ohmeter. You can also check the switch itself with the ohmeter. You can check the solenoid in the pan by appling 12 volts directly from the + post of the battery, to the connection at the transmission. Listen at the pan for a click when you touch a jumper wire to the connector. It's most likely a problem with the gas pedal switch, the wiring, or the solenoid. If it is the solenoid, you can get a replacement at a transmission shop. Installation is easy(2 bolts), but you have to drop the pan. The downshift system is very important. If it doesn't work, the transmission will not shift correctly at wide open throttle, it will shift low.
     
    LARRY70GS, Sep 25, 2004
    #5
  6. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    Thanks, I'll look into it next weekend, have some friends staying here right now, so I'm trying to keep my hands off the car. I find it interesting that the transmission shop that both rebuilt the transmission and sold me the car didn't check that when they did the work on it? Well, as I've found out, If you can do it yourself, do it yourelf. Cause you'll just have to re-do it anyway.

    ZZzz....

    Thanks again
    :beer
     
    EEE, Sep 25, 2004
    #6
  7. MeanBuicks

    MeanBuicks Scaring the neighbors.

    Larry's reply was excellent and very detailed. Let me give you a layman's method of checking solenoid operation from the comfort of your driver seat.

    :Smarty: Switch your radio to AM and tune it between stations. Engine off, key on, mat the accelerator and release and listen for a click sound in the speakers. AM radios usually pickup the electromagnetic energy from the solenoid if it's functional.
     
    MeanBuicks, Sep 26, 2004
    #7
  8. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    Sounds really nice to be able to, but my radio got stolen about a month ago. I'm just going to start in one end and see where the link in the chain is broken. I wish there were those kinds of solutions for alot of the problems that come up, but by taking care of one at a time we'll get there in the end.

    Many thanks
     
    EEE, Sep 27, 2004
    #8

Share This Page