I finally picked up a MIG and went looking for the proper thickness sheet metal so I can get started practicing burning holes in stuff.:ball: Thought it would be simple. Everyone has 22 gauge but I need 20 in order to match what I'm butt-welding to. I called a specialty metals place and they have 20 ga but said it was hot rolled instead of cold. I assumed I wanted cold rolled since it would have a smoother finish. The guy said the hot roll sheet metal isn't as rough as say a piece of 1/4" flat hot rolled stock. What are you guys buying? Hot or cold rolled. Thanks
Why not hit a salvage yard and grab an old trunk lid or hood Thats what I am going to do tomorrow for my welding practice.
I never worried about hot vs cold rolled for patch panels, so just get what makes the most sense for availability and affordability. Devon
either way you are going to mudd it and feather it before you prime and paint it so why should it matter? I know a guy who uses old a/c ductwork and metal panels off of junk box trucks and whatever else he can find to build patch panels. just my .02 im no expert im just really cheap and try to make hamburger taste like steak on a ramen noodle budget
Thanks for the replies. I didn't want to assume anything since this is new to me. My first task is to tackle a 1" wide rusted area all along the base of the windshield. I found the windshield area (dash metal) is 20 ga, .036" and the body panels seem to be 18ga .047".
Did you know that this part is available in repro? I saw one a couple weeks ago and its for a Chevelle so the dash side is wrong but that can be cut off. and the part you need used
Jason is working on a '66 Riviera though. :TU: Typically, hot rolled will be more ductile because it is formed before the grain is fully formed, cold rolled is work hardened which gives it a smaller grain structure and makes it a little harder. Most metal that you go out and buy is hot rolled because it is less expensive.
John, Thanks but as Dale mentioned it is a Riv I'm working on which I failed to mention. I know the assumption here is Skylark unless noted otherwise. :TU:. I checked getting the whole dash top piece used and cut out of an arid climate car but finding a 100% rust free one was a problem, and when I did, the price scared me away. Walt, I did find a body shop supply place that had the smooth 20ga in a 33"x48" pieces. I just ran out at lunch and picked it up. The welding gas store was on the way so I got my bottle of MIG gas too. Time to get this show on the road.
Oh no. Watch out. Jason's got a new toy, and he's getting ready to burn some holes in things. LOL.:laugh: Make sure and take lots of pics and post them up Jason. I'll need to do a decent bit of welding on my 65 Riv, and I too, have never welded before. Rob
best idea i heard was a guy that used old dryers fridges and washing machines to make patch metal. you could take a bad one scrap the copper and use the metal and still come out better than buyin sheet metal out right.