1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

Holley Avenger OR Stock Rochester OR Newer&Larger Rochester?

Discussion in 'Other' started by CyberT, May 17, 2015.

  1. CyberT

    CyberT Silver Level contributor

    I have asked this in the same time as other questions, but I have never felt that I have been given a convincing answer.
    This time I make a thread for it where all carburetor experts see it.

    I have been told that Holley makes every engine start and run, but not perform 100%.

    That it would be huge improvement if I change back to a Rochester.
    Lower fuel consumption, more power, less screws to adjust, or need to adjust at all. Just fantastic. :)

    Let's start there. Is this true? Sounds logic.
    A Rochester made for the engine should perform better,
    however, my Holley is made in modern times and should have some improvements over a Rochester made 47 years ago.

    Today I have the 770cfm Holley Street Avenger (80770-1). (LINK TO WEB)
    It works, but I want the best.


    Q: I notice that this one has vacuum secondaries. What have Rochester, vacuum or mechanic secondaries? What is good and bad?


    So I wonder:
    1) If my Holley is a keeper.
    2) Or should I get a stock 1968 Rochester.
    3) Or get 1969-70 intake manifold and 1970-1974 Rochester.

    - And why one choice is better than the other.

    Some say that 800cfm is not necessary, but it don't seem to be negative?
    I have larger exhaust system, if anything break I would probably buy something more improved which I guess would appreciate more gas.
    Some say that the improvements are not doing much anyway, but they do something?

    Thanks. :)

     
    CyberT, May 17, 2015
    #1
  2. carmantx

    carmantx Never Surrender

    I think it all comes down to what you are comfortable working with. A carburetor meters the flow of fuel/air to an engine. Almost any of them can be set up to work correctly for you, if you put enough tuning time and effort to it.

    Now, that said, here is why I like the quadrajet, and have created my business to build them.

    Quadrajet meters air/fuel all through the power band, and will only supply the necessary cfm that the engine needs at the time it needs it. You can't over carb and engine with the quadrajet.

    Small primaries make it great for cruising around. quick throttle response and excellent fuel economy.

    Quadrajet allows very specific tuning in all ranges.

    Sure is fun to go fast with a Quadrajet and spend much less money on the carburetor than other brands.

    68 is a better design than the 66-67 for sure, but 69-74 had better design than the 68.
     
    carmantx, May 17, 2015
    #2
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    One thing at a time. First make sure you have a healthy engine. If something basic is wrong, carburetor changes and ignition adjustments won't fix it. Compression must be normal and valves must seal. Check that first.
     
    LARRY70GS, May 17, 2015
    #3

Share This Page